Review by: Whiskery Turnip
Distillery: Aultmore.
Bottler: SMWS.
Region: Scotland/Speyside Single Malt.
ABV: 57.8%. Cask Strength.
Age: 24 Years. Distilled on 31 May 1989.
Cask type: Refill Sherry Butt.
Nose: Chocolate and caramel with a fruity backing, hints of anise and orange, coffee and leather, a touch of wax and new shoes.
Palate: Medium to full-bodied, big sherry cask notes of dark chocolate, espresso, leather, and a mellow waxiness; lacquered and charred wood, dates, a touch of sulfur to keep things interesting.
Finish: Medium to long with dried fruits, espresso, and leather.
Mental Image: Pyroclastic Fudgy Flow from the Chocolate Volcano.
Conclusion: The aroma presented fudge and caramel desserts topped with cherries in a luxurious sauce carrying anise and orange rind. Freshly roasted coffee lingered further in with worn leather booths and a touch of candle wax. New leather shoes, polish, and roasted nuts flittered in and out with dark chocolate desserts. Medium to full-bodied on the palate with an oily and waxy thickness. Syrupy fruits over dark chocolate with a side of espresso, melting candles, and polished leather. Lacquered wood with a touch of char— laser etching or cutting a new motif for an upscale restaurant? Notions of cedar and leather emerged from a slightly sulfurous funk that drifted with dates in the background. The finish was medium to long with dried fruits, espresso crema, and leather shoes.
Rich and decadent this very mature Aultmore was absolutely loaded with chocolate, coffee, and fruits over the top of slightly funky sulfurous notes of leather and burning candles. I found it an absolute delight, loaded with big woody notes, initially quite waxy, and never too sweet. The flavors were well-balanced and presented in a lovely structured manner. I kept hoping for a bit more depth to the dram, a bit more class even, but those were minor complaints with an otherwise beautiful whisky.
Overall, I am not quite sure it lived up to the SMWS name— though it was quite good, especially for a big sherried malt. At the time of writing, the whisky base score feels oddly low for something with big cask driven flavors and a waxy heft to the mouthfeel. Perhaps that bit of leather and funk turned some off? No one else left notes, so I have no idea.
Final Score: 84.
Scoring Legend:
- 95-100: As good as it gets. Jaw-dropping, eye-widening, unforgettable whisky.
- 90-94: Sublime, a personal favorite in its category.
- 85-89: Excellent, a standout dram.
- 80-84: Quite good. Quality stuff.
- 75-79: Decent whisky worth tasting.
- 70-74: Meh. It’s definitely drinkable, but it can do better.
- 60-69: Not so good. I might not turn down a glass if I needed a drink.
- 50-59: Save it for mixing.
- 0-49: Blech.
Malt Runners 