Mortlach SMWS 76.89 – “A whisper of decadence”

Review by: TOModera

I had to go back to the bar with the special SIngle Malt Whisky Society bottlings. I didn’t care if the food was good or bad (turned out nice) or that it was an old club (actually done up really nicely) or that it was beside the Leicester Train station (honestly didn’t bother me, it’s sound proof). None of that would stop me (it’s actually a plus).

For my first dram of the evening, I went for Mortlach – A whisper of decadence – SMWS 76.89. I hadn’t a clue which distillery it was when I ordered, yet the great bartender (awesome dude) climbed up to get it from the top shelf (they need a ladder installed).

Mortlach may not ring any bells, though it’s been around the block for quite awhile (which may not mean much coming from someone from North America, but bear with me). It predates Glenfiddich in Dufftown by 4 decades. It’s now owned by Diageo and is used in quite a few different Johnnie Walker offerings. So keep an eye out (or don’t, just have some Johnnie Walker).

Let’s see if they should be bringing it out of the blend more often (or if I chose poorly).

Distillery: Mortlach Distillery.

Bottler: SMWS.

Region: Speyside.

ABV: 57.1%. Cask strength.

Age: 16 years. Distilled in 1995. Bottled in 2011.

Cask type: First fill sherry butt.

Price: $133.99 (CAD)

Color: Rich caramel

Nose: Salted peanuts, bitter chocolates, nectarines, sour cherry, grapefruit

Nice, salty smell to this one, eventually opening up into sweetness. Not surprising given the sherry but, though it takes a little while to really get the full character (so let it breathe).

Taste: Grapefruit, sea air, floral, orange, tarragon, lime, cilantro, Tex-Mex mix, rhubarb, caramel

Good mix of Mexican food and fruit on this one. Nice amount of sweetness. Almost like having a fruit bean burrito and a nice latte (bad idea, not going to do that again, worst business meeting ever).

On second thought, perhaps it’s better than the above diet choice.

Finish: Cigar, port, lime, cocoa, tomato, chipotle

Smokely, nice amount of sweetness and acidity. The fruit nicely fades away.

Conclusion:

Wow I wish I was able to buy this, as it’s the best Highland I’ve had in awhile (even though it’s not even a Highland). Nice balance, good amount of sweetness and floral notes, overall a good dram. Honestly was surprised at the balance of the flavours, and how well it all meshed. That being said, it could have a more complex finish or nose, so I wonder if it’s really worth the money (maybe go half way and Diageo can start producing an OB offering?)

Oh well, good enough for a somewhat Schizophrenic review, none the less.

Final Score: 86.

Scoring Legend:

  • 95-100: As good as it gets. Jaw-dropping, eye-widening, unforgettable whisky.
  • 90-94: Sublime, a personal favorite in its category.
  • 85-89: Excellent, a standout dram.
  • 80-84: Quite good. Quality stuff.
  • 75-79: Decent whisky worth tasting.
  • 70-74: Meh. It’s definitely drinkable, but it can do better.
  • 60-69: Not so good. I might not turn down a glass if I needed a drink.
  • 50-59: Save it for mixing.
  • 0-49: Blech.

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