Review by: dustbunna
Dalwhinnie is a distillery that’s not on my radar much, despite the 15yr having a lot of presence as Diageo’s main Highland representative in the Classic Malts. As happened when I researched Cragganmore for my review of their 12yr, it was surprising to me to read that Dalwhinnie’s distilling methods are pretty old-school: they use wooden washbacks, worm tub condensers, and a lightly peated new make considered fairly heavy and rough when it comes off the stills, not unlike Mortlach and Benrinnes. All of that seems at odds a bit when I read reviews of various Dalwhinnies, though– “For the Okayest of Times” is the standout comment in my mind on a Scotch that seems often to scan as light and boring. I am sure this reputation is not helped any by its standard Diageo processing– chill-filtered, E150 added and bottled at 43%. This is a 200mL bottle I got from overseas because anytime I’ve seen Dalwhinnie 15 on the shelf in the US, it’s been between $70 and $90, and it’s always had a hard time convincing me of that price with those stats.
Distillery: Dalwhinnie.
Bottler: Distillery bottling.
Region: Highlands.
ABV: 43%.
Age: 15 years. Distilled in. Bottled in.
Cask type: Likely vatting of bourbon and sherry casks.
Price: $15 USD (200mL bottle).
Color added and chill-filtered.
Bottle open across approx. 2 months, notes taken leisurely across that period. Bold notes taken beneath the shoulder, regular-formatted notes taken further into the bottle past the halfway point, italicized notes taken towards the heel.
Nose: malty with fresh-cut flowers, white peaches and grapes, lilac, dried lavender, dried apples.
Palate: medium-thin body ~ a bit of ethanol burn on arrival, heather, strongly estery and floral but hard to pick apart, time reveals Nerds candy and dead leaves, a bit medicinal, melon gummy candy.
Finish: medium length ~ very heavily floral and perfumed, rose extract, more warmth from the ethanol, a bitterness similar to grapefruit, spun sugar, turns a bit more bitter, white pepper.
Conclusion: If a Scotch could taste like pastel colors, this would be it. I do wish it had more body, but the flavors are fascinating– some of the most intensely floral whisky I’ve ever tasted, plus so much candy. The palate reminds me simultaneously of walking into a florist shop and a sweets shop. The nose is great and pretty consistent, but it’s a little off-balance with the palate swaying from too sweet to too bitter, and a fair bit of heat for 43%. Still, this surprised me– far more interesting than I expected from one of the less-glorified Diageo staples, and if I saw it for around $50-60, I could see possibly picking it up.
Final Score: 76.
Scoring Legend:
- 95-100: As good as it gets. Jaw-dropping, eye-widening, unforgettable whisky.
- 90-94: Sublime, a personal favorite in its category.
- 85-89: Excellent, a standout dram.
- 80-84: Quite good. Quality stuff.
- 75-79: Decent whisky worth tasting.
- 70-74: Meh. It’s definitely drinkable, but it can do better.
- 60-69: Not so good. I might not turn down a glass if I needed a drink.
- 50-59: Save it for mixing.
- 0-49: Blech.
Malt Runners 