Review by: dustbunna
Morrison & Mackay make a couple of these 46% undisclosed single malt bottlings from different regions. This is their young Islay, named after one of the island’s western beaches. The “undisclosed” is really only relevant to the label, as is the lack of an age statement; consensus is that this is 5-to-6-year-old Caol Ila. I don’t normally comment on color but this is almost transparent in the glass, lighter than pinot grigio, which I love because I often come across this color with one of my favorite styles: young, peated and distillate-forward.
Distillery: Caol Ila (undisclosed).
Bottler: Morrison & Mackay.
Region: Islay.
ABV: 46.
Age: NAS but purportedly 5-6 years. Bottled in 2017.
Cask type: Refill ex-bourbon.
Price: $35 USD.
Natural Color. Non-chill-filtered.
Bottle open across approx. 3 months, notes taken leisurely across that period. Bold notes taken beneath the shoulder, regular-formatted notes taken further into the bottle past the halfway point, italicized notes taken towards the heel.
Nose: definitely young but quite pretty ~ candied lemon, smoke, grass, buttered popcorn Jelly Bellies, plantains, cola candy, green wood on a fire, burnt ends.
Palate: fairly thin but also a bit creamy ~ lemon cleaner, buttered toast, medicinal mint, banana Runts, moss, hints of liquorice and salt.
Finish: medium-short ~ continues with sweet-medicinal-lemon plus hints of roasted nuts, electrical smoke, quinine, bitterness grows a bit over time, flinty minerals, sweetens more at the heel.
Conclusion: As far as young Islay profiles go, this is refined and also leans very sweet– in places, I can almost imagine what a peat-smoke-flavored hard candy would taste like as I sip it. There is nothing really complex about what it’s doing, but it is extremely drinkable and flavor-wise has been hitting the right spot for me. I do wish it had more body and length (46% is great, but this might have sung even more at cask strength), and there seems to be a dip in enjoyment about halfway through as it picks up some of the more obviously “young” notes I’ve seen in other whiskies like this (they become integrated along the way, so the bottle ends up in a better place as the fill level continues to drop.) Really, these are small quibbles for a $35 bottle with these stats. I’d easily buy it again for the price; too bad it’s so hard to find in the States.
In the same vein, Lagavulin 8 core range release (more refined, more sandalwood smoke and toffee) > this > Kilchoman Machir Bay (a bit punchier, more menthol and bitterness on the finish.) Recalling my notes on the OB Caol Ila 12, I think this young’n probably had better intensity of flavors but not quite as velvety a mouthfeel.
Final Score: 80.
Scoring Legend:
- 95-100: As good as it gets. Jaw-dropping, eye-widening, unforgettable whisky.
- 90-94: Sublime, a personal favorite in its category.
- 85-89: Excellent, a standout dram.
- 80-84: Quite good. Quality stuff.
- 75-79: Decent whisky worth tasting.
- 70-74: Meh. It’s definitely drinkable, but it can do better.
- 60-69: Not so good. I might not turn down a glass if I needed a drink.
- 50-59: Save it for mixing.
- 0-49: Blech.
Malt Runners 