Review by: The Muskox
This is another of those dusty Scott’s Selection bottlings that a bunch of us nerds tasted on a Zoom call together. Or in my case, attempted to taste: just before the second night of tastings, I committed palate seppuku and ate a burrito. By the time the tasting started, my palate had cleared up pretty well, but I knew I’d need a second go with the whiskies to give them a proper try.
As a disclaimer, this review was written after the second taste of this whisky, with a clean palate. Burritos, while delicious, do not go well with whisky. Especially the spicy burritos, which as we all know are the tastiest ones. Which reminds me: Chipotle makes terrible burritos, don’t @ me.
Distillery: Bunnahabhain.
Bottler: Scott’s Selection.
Region: Islay.
ABV: 53.8%. Cask strength.
Age: 15-16 years. Distilled in 1988. Bottled in 2004.
Cask type: Unknown.
Price: N/A, sample.
Color: Gold. Natural Color. Non-chill-filtered.
Nose: Layered and complex. The top layer is heavily fragrant, with crisp green apple, bergamot, dried rose, maple sap, and mango lassi. There’s a very distinct petrichor note, which is always fun to come across. There’s a funky, earthy fruit tartness, almost like a dry mead, or maybe that Palo Cortado sherry that a friend poured for me one time. The middle notes are dusty malt, maybe honey-drizzled granola with yogurt, as well as soft caramel and nuts. The bass notes are all the brine, savouriness, and earthiness. There are old books, pipe tobacco, fragrant herbs, dunnage. Someone at the tasting mentioned Manchego cheese, which is such a brilliant note that perfectly captures this farmy-salty-lactic flavour. Hints of menthol, peppers, and sundried tomatoes.
Palate: Medium-thick oily texture. Arrives with heavy sweet honey and preserved pear, as well as strong brine. There’s a greenness here, but also some sherry fruit: plum, fig, apricot, and underripe tropical something-or-other. Hints of malt, vanilla, and toasted nuts. Gradually, the flavour develops to heavy, musty, vegetal oak, but all the while drizzled in honey. Very earthy on the back end, turning to dunnage, sod, and more of that Manchego.
Finish: Very long, bittersweet and musty. Strong black tea and old oak, both sweetened with daubs of honey. Vegetal – a peck of pickled peppers. Mouthwatering apple and fig. Subtle butter and dark chocolate. Even more Manchego.
Possible SMWS bottling name: “Burrito-proof brilliance”
Conclusion: Exceedingly good. It’s one of the most complex whiskies I’ve ever tasted – the layers of earth, sherry, sweet-tart fruit, rich herbal oak… they just keep on giving. That Manchego note is so distinct, and is something I’ve never come across before. Love the petrichor too. Such refined complexity, it’s not just a barrage of flavours, it’s rather subtle at times. I knew the whisky was good even after that burrito, but it took the second tasting with a clean palate for all those earthy notes to really shine. Obviously. Don’t eat burritos before whisky tastings.
Final Score: 92.
Scoring Legend:
- 95-100: As good as it gets. Jaw-dropping, eye-widening, unforgettable whisky.
- 90-94: Sublime, a personal favorite in its category.
- 85-89: Excellent, a standout dram.
- 80-84: Quite good. Quality stuff.
- 75-79: Decent whisky worth tasting.
- 70-74: Meh. It’s definitely drinkable, but it can do better.
- 60-69: Not so good. I might not turn down a glass if I needed a drink.
- 50-59: Save it for mixing.
- 0-49: Blech.
Malt Runners 