Review by: The Muskox
When it comes to whisky, we Torontonians suffer from atrocious prices and extremely limited selection. We do, however, have one saving grace: The Feathers Pub, a whisky wonderland with a menu chock-full of incredible vintage whiskies at extremely reasonable prices per glass. I’ve had my eye on this one in particular since the bar reopened, and finally got down to try it the other day.
Distillery: Imperial.
Bottler: Douglas Laing.
Region: Speyside.
ABV: 50%.
Age: 19 years. Distilled in November 1979. Bottled in October 1999.
Cask type: Unknown.
Price: N/A. $20 CAD for a pour at the bar.
Color: Gold. Natural Color. Non-chill-filtered.
Nose: Deep and malty. Rich honeycomb, barley sugar, almost sourdough but not particularly sour. Buttery croissants with cherry jam, apple turnovers, banana ice cream, toffee pudding, and torched brown sugar. Stonefruit (white cherries, plums) and some grapefruit freshness. Some varnished oak and a little bit of leather.
Palate: Syrupy thick texture. Arrives with buttered bread and stonefruit. A little bit tropical with tart-ish pineapple and kiwi, then rich malt, honey, and old oak in the middle. Tobacco, leather, and musty dried herbs, then somewhat fruity on the back end with green grapes and orange oil. Well-toasted (but not charred!) marshmallow.
Adding a few drops of water brings out the wax and pear.
Finish: Long, with lingering oak and honey. More beeswax, butter, and banana. Some peach cobbler and sliced pears. A little bit of cinnamon and vanilla, and a tiny hint of peat smoke.
Possible SMWS bottling name: “Ice wine armchair lounge”
Conclusion: A great old whisky, brimming with character. It’s got that big wax and malt that I was looking for, has a great mouthfeel, a long finish, and delicious richness throughout. Is it better than that Signatory Vintage bottling? Maybe not quite. It’s a bit oakier, and maybe not quite as complex. I shared a glass of this whisky with my dad, who pointed out the similarity to ice wine. If you ever get down to the Feathers and are overwhelmed by the menu, know that this is a very fine choice indeed.
Final Score: 89.
Scoring Legend:
- 95-100: As good as it gets. Jaw-dropping, eye-widening, unforgettable whisky.
- 90-94: Sublime, a personal favorite in its category.
- 85-89: Excellent, a standout dram.
- 80-84: Quite good. Quality stuff.
- 75-79: Decent whisky worth tasting.
- 70-74: Meh. It’s definitely drinkable, but it can do better.
- 60-69: Not so good. I might not turn down a glass if I needed a drink.
- 50-59: Save it for mixing.
- 0-49: Blech.
Malt Runners 