Ardmore 12 Year (2008) Hunter Laing Old Malt Cask

Review by: The Muskox

This is my final review of whiskies from last month’s Toronto Whisky Society tasting, following that delicious Auchentoshan and that less-than-delicious Jura. We did try two more whiskies, which I haven’t reviewed because one was bad enough that I don’t really want to write about it, and the other I reviewed 4 years ago.

This Ardmore didn’t quite fit with the “Oddballs” theme of the tasting, as young Islay-cask Ardmores are pretty widely-available, but it’s always nice to finish a tasting with something peaty (the Society members demand it!).

Distillery: Ardmore.

Bottler: Hunter Laing.

Region: Highlands.

ABV: 50%, cask strength.

Age: 12 years old. Distilled in July 2008. Bottled in May 2021.

Cask type: Cask #HL18700, a refill barrel.

Price: $125 for 700 mL in Alberta.

Color: White wine. Colour added, chillfiltered.

Nose: Wet mossy peat. Peppery genoa salami, green apple, grapefruit, and lightly floral. Salted plantain chips. Dried oregano and rock dust.

Palate: Medium-light body. Arrives herbal, smoky, and citrusy, with an almost mezcal-like rubber boot note. Lemon squeezed onto oysters. Charred driftwood, slightly medicinal peat smoke, and cool herbs. Salted grapefruit, black pepper, and pear.

Finish: Medium-length, earthy and mineral. Lingering ashiness and rock dust. Thyme sprigs and lime pith.

Possible SMWS bottling name: “Grapefruit Viking funeral”

Notes: An extremely straightforward Ardmore, with the classic minerality, herbs, and medicinal peat. It’s pretty light on both texture and complexity, moreso than similar bottlings that I’ve tried (the r/Scotch pick for example). I think those other Ardmores just do what this one does but better. It’s not a bad whisky at all, just fairly boring, especially in the context of those other bottlings.

Final Score: 79.

Scoring Legend:

  • 95-100: As good as it gets. Jaw-dropping, eye-widening, unforgettable whisky.
  • 90-94: Sublime, a personal favorite in its category.
  • 85-89: Excellent, a standout dram.
  • 80-84: Quite good. Quality stuff.
  • 75-79: Decent whisky worth tasting.
  • 70-74: Meh. It’s definitely drinkable, but it can do better.
  • 60-69: Not so good. I might not turn down a glass if I needed a drink.
  • 50-59: Save it for mixing.
  • 0-49: Blech.

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