Review by: The Muskox

Y’all remember that Murray McDavid tasting my whisky club put on a couple weeks ago? The one I’ve been reviewing several whiskies from? That was also a Douglas Laing tasting.

This was the first of three Xtra Old Particular bottles we’ve tried. As it turns out, the only other Blair Athol I’ve reviewed was another 25 year old 1995 vintage from Douglas Laing. That whisky was fantastic, but I’ve had other non-review experiences with sherry-cask Blair Athol where sulfur has been a recurring problem. Let’s see which side of the sulfur fence this one sits on.

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Distillery: Blair Athol.

Bottler: Douglas Laing.

Region: Highlands.

ABV: 57.9%. Cask strength.

Age: 25 years. Distilled in September 1995. Bottled in December 2020.

Cask type: Cask #DL14585, a refill sherry butt.

Price: N/A, sample.

Color: Light amber. Natural Color. Non-chill-filtered.

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Nose: Very balanced sherry. Fragrant fruits – apricots, orange peel, candied pineapple, hints of cherry. Soft leather and comfy old wool sweaters. Vanilla bean, creamy coffee, and weathered wood. Paraffin and old parchment. A little earthy, nearly farmy, with tiny hints of matchstick sulfur here and there.

Palate: Medium-creamy texture. Not too sweet on the arrival. Fragrant dried flowers and unexpectedly juicy fruit. Blood orange and a hint of citronella. Loads of old-whisky flavour: musty cellar, old libraries, and gentle herbs. Develops to complex tea (pu’erh perhaps?), toasted wood, layered spice, and tobacco.

Finish: Long and rich. Blood orange creamsicle, cola candies, tobacco, toasted nuts, and beeswax. Distant hints of soft old peat.

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Possible SMWS bottling name: “Watching leaves change colour from a cozy armchair”

Conclusion: Wow, it’s even better than that last Old Particular bottling. This is a nearly perfectly-balanced sherry cask whisky. Not too sweet, or too oaky, or overly sulfured. The wax notes (and the diversity of wax notes) were a surprise, to be sure, but a welcome one – you can get that flavour in some Blair Athols, so I’ve heard. Amazing complexity, lovely old-whisky notes, long finish, tea… an immaculate cask. This was the stand-out dram of the tasting for me, even after following it up with two 30-year-old Islays. Worthy of the “Xtra”.

Final Score: 89.

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Scoring Legend:

• 95-100: As good as it gets. Jaw-dropping, eye-widening, unforgettable whisky.
• 90-94: Sublime, a personal favorite in its category.
• 85-89: Excellent, a standout dram.
• 80-84: Quite good. Quality stuff.
• 75-79: Decent whisky worth tasting.
• 70-74: Meh. It’s definitely drinkable, but it can do better.
• 60-69: Not so good. I might not turn down a glass if I needed a drink.
• 50-59: Save it for mixing.
• 0-49: Blech.