Review by: The Muskox

Benromach should be the next trendy distillery. With their old-school lightly peated style, they’re Speyside’s closest thing to Springbank. Oddly enough, the pre-G&M-ownership Benromachs that I’ve tried have been much lighter in character and less funky than the modern bottlings. So which is the real “old-school” whisky?

This Benromach was distilled in 1978, 5 years before the distillery’s decade-long mothballing, and 10 years before their purchase by Gordon & MacPhail.

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Distillery: Benromach.

Bottler: Signatory Vintage.

Region: Speyside.

ABV: 43%, cask strength.

Age: 18 years old. Distilled 01/25/1978. Bottled June 1996.

Cask type: Oak Casks.

Color: Straw. No colour added, chill-filtered.

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Nose: Soft and tropical. Loads of creamy coconut syrup, with vanilla bean, pineapple skins, and pear. There’s a very resinous oak note here, as well as some black pepper and an extremely distant hint of smoke. As it rested in the glass, notes of parsley and rock dust emerged.

Palate: Medium-light texture. The low proof is unfortunately noticeable here, with flavour arriving mildly. There’s grapefruit oil, runny honey, and coconut at first, before an extended development, getting nuttier, then oakier. Nougat and toasted marshmallow give way to rich old oak and used bookstores.

Finish: Medium-length, or slightly shorter. Charred oak lifts into creamy sweetness – unsalted butter, clover honey, and more coconut syrup. Some slightly tart fruit notes of green grapes, yellow plums, and mango.

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Possible SMWS bottling name: “Piña Coladas and getting caught in the rain”

Notes: This is yet another example of whisky that’s great even at relatively low proof. That low proof is a lot more noticeable here than in some of my other recent experiences with old 43%ers, which detracts a little from the overall quality. Still, this is a delicious and extremely drinkable whisky with great flavours and excellent structure. The combination of creamy tropical richness and that old-oak flavour, done at this level, is pretty much impossible to find in modern official bottlings.

Final Score: 85.

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Scoring Legend:

• 95-100: As good as it gets. Jaw-dropping, eye-widening, unforgettable whisky.
• 90-94: Sublime, a personal favorite in its category.
• 85-89: Excellent, a standout dram.
• 80-84: Quite good. Quality stuff.
• 75-79: Decent whisky worth tasting.
• 70-74: Meh. It’s definitely drinkable, but it can do better.
• 60-69: Not so good. I might not turn down a glass if I needed a drink.
• 50-59: Save it for mixing.
• 0-49: Blech.