Review by: The Muskox

Here’s the final vintage whisky that my friend and I tried on our visit to the world’s most magical whisky bar. We tried this in between that ’83 Clynelish and the Glen Mhor 8. I’d never had any Macduffs before, aside from those “The Deveron” bottlings, but the price was right and I like Scott’s Selection as a bottler. We became slightly alarmed when we realized that we’d ordered quite possibly the last dram left in the bottle…

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Distillery: Macduff.

Bottler: Scott’s Selection.

Region: Highlands.

ABV: 57.1%. Cask strength.

Age: 22-23 years. Distilled in 1978. Bottled in 2001.

Cask type: “Oak cask” (unknown).

Price: N/A. $20 CAD for a pour at the bar.

Color: Dark gold. Natural Color. Non-chill-filtered.

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Nose: Slightly mellow, expected given the relatively low fill of the bottle, but coming from the Clynelish it’s rather rich. At first it’s creamy vanilla, baked apples, and poached pears, but then a savoury and vegetal element comes forward. Veggie stock cubes, tobacco, rotted fallen leaves… a trace of old paper too. As it rests in the glass some more, notes of brown sugar, nuts, and papaya start to emerge.

Palate: Medium texture, some presence. Arrives sweet-savoury, with dried mushrooms, toasted nuts, apples, and plum sauce. Develops very earthy, with strong herbal oak, hardwood tree bark, and potting soil. A little cocoa powder too.

Finish: Earthy and herbal again. Lingering oak, mushroom stock, and deep earthy greenness. A hint of orange peel. A dribble of water adds flavours of rotting apples and road salt.

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Possible SMWS bottling name: “Warm mug of cider in a bushcraft shelter”

Conclusion: This might have been a bit past its prime, but it sure was interesting and tasty. I wonder if some of the lighter flavours have evaporated off, leaving all the heaviness? Who knows. This is earthy, funky, old-school, and rather good.

Final Score: 85.

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Scoring Legend:

• 95-100: As good as it gets. Jaw-dropping, eye-widening, unforgettable whisky.
• 90-94: Sublime, a personal favorite in its category.
• 85-89: Excellent, a standout dram.
• 80-84: Quite good. Quality stuff.
• 75-79: Decent whisky worth tasting.
• 70-74: Meh. It’s definitely drinkable, but it can do better.
• 60-69: Not so good. I might not turn down a glass if I needed a drink.
• 50-59: Save it for mixing.
• 0-49: Blech.