Review by: The Muskox
This was one of several bottles that the Toronto Whisky Society purchased from a private collector earlier this year. The collection is a mix of both malts and blends, all purchased in the 70s and 80s. This Ardbeg 10 seems to date from the early/mid-1980s, meaning that it was distilled in the 1970s. 1970s Ardbeg has quite the reputation… why not put that to the test via a side-by-side comparison with the modern version of Ardbeg 10?
For those not in the know, Ardbeg’s bottlings (at least the ones still available today) can be broken down into three eras of ownership: First, the DCL/Hiram Walker era, which ended upon the distillery’s mothballing in 1981. This is where those legendary 1970s Ardbegs like Lord of the Isles come from. Second, the Allied era, lasting from the distillery’s reopening in 1989 to its second closure in 1996. This era is the source of modern classics like Twentysomething, as well as much of the older sherry-cask whisky that made the original Uigeadail so amazing. Finally, we have modern Ardbeg, from the distillery’s reopening in 1997 under Glenmorangie’s ownership to today.
This 1980s bottling was therefore distilled in the DCL/Hiram Walker era. Ardbeg of this era is marked by, among other things, less consistency in peat levels, as the whisky was being made exclusively for blends. Let’s see if it can hold up to that era’s reputation.
Before anyone asks, no, this was not blind. The colour difference (not to mention the flavours) would have made it obvious anyways.
Distillery: Ardbeg
Bottler: Official bottling
Region: Islay
ABV: 40%
Age: 10 Years. Distilled in the mid-1970s. Bottled in the mid-1980s
Cask type: Unknown
Price: $24 CAD when it was purchased in the 1980s.
Color: e150. Chill Filtered.
Nose: Darker in flavour than the current 10. Deep earthy peat – lignite, dirty charcoal grill, and black pepper. Savoury vegetal notes of sautéed celery, celery seed, nori, charred poblanos, and maybe some tomato paste. Chicken soup with dill? Slightly scented with grapefruit pith and spruce. Hints of slate and ink.
Palate: Medium-texture, quite soft. Arrives with rounded cool fruit notes of pear and lime, turning vegetal, then very dark and earthy. A little bit farmy here. Roasted nuts, dark-roast coffee, and a hint of lapsang souchong.
Finish: Jet-black. Carnitas, iodine, poblanos, spent coals, and dark chocolate. Heavy barnyard.
Possible SMWS bottling name: “Century-old subterranean coal fire”
Conclusion:
Fuck it, that’s amazing. There’s an incredible depth and complexity here, and it has that particular dark richness that I always hope to find in pre-modern Ardbeg. It’s unbelievably drinkable, too. All y’all who categorically swear off any whisky bottled at 40% need to try this right now.
So, how did it compare to the current Ardbeg 10? Everyone in the room came up with their own metaphor for the differences between the two whiskies. Mine was that the modern Ardbeg 10 was flash-fried, and the 1980s Ardbeg 10 was slow-cooked for hours. The modern bottling was much pepperier on the nose and noticeably sweeter throughout. The smoke was stronger, brighter, and less medicinal, the flavours more intense but less complex. The room was split maybe 80:20, with most people preferring the older bottling. For me, it wasn’t even close.
Final Score: 90.
Scoring Legend:
- 95-100: As good as it gets. Jaw-dropping, eye-widening, unforgettable whisky.
- 90-94: Sublime, a personal favorite in its category.
- 85-89: Excellent, a standout dram.
- 80-84: Quite good. Quality stuff.
- 75-79: Decent whisky worth tasting.
- 70-74: Meh. It’s definitely drinkable, but it can do better.
- 60-69: Not so good. I might not turn down a glass if I needed a drink.
- 50-59: Save it for mixing.
- 0-49: Blech.
Malt Runners 