Benrinnes 23 Year (1997) Hunter Laing Old Malt Cask (K&L Wines pick)

Review by: The Muskox

K&L Wines has a phenomenal cask program. Though the quality isn’t as consistently high as some other similar stores, their picks are extremely plentiful, generally very interesting, and almost always very well-priced. Case and point, this 23-year-old Benrinnes came into K&L a couple years ago for only $120!


Distillery: Benrinnes.

Bottler: Hunter Laing.

Region: Speyside.

ABV: 58.4%. Cask strength.

Age: 23 years. Distilled in June 1997. Bottled in March 2021.

Cask type: Cask #HL18003, a refill hogshead.

Price: $120.

Color: Dark gold. Natural Color. Non-chill-filtered.


Nose: Very woody-sweet – maple candies, flamed maple planks, pralines and cream. Some shoe polish, for sure, and leather. A little buttery. Mixed citrus zests and some slightly sappy flowers.

Palate: Medium-thick texture, some heat. Arrives immediately woody, along with dark caramel, toasted coconut, and citrus pith. Big worm-tub meaty and herbal character as it develops, strong oak, tobacco, dried moss, and leather. Just a little sweetness underneath: dried apricots.

Water cuts some of the heat and extends the development – there’s more room in here before the wood takes over.

Finish: Fairly short. Strong oak, varnished mahogany, a little leather, and hops. A bit of candy sweetness, along with apple and more coconut and citrus. Lingering citrus tartness.


Possible SMWS bottling name: “Ents playing beer pong

Not my fave from K&L. This cask was extremely active for a refill hogshead, providing loads of heavy wood and caramel notes. There are some nice flavours in here, and there were times when I really didn’t mind that heavy oak. This just feels a bit bludgeoned by the cask, especially with those wood-sugar and varnish notes. Not a whole lot of complexity either, and a short finish to boot. My man zSolaris really hated this one – I didn’t find it undrinkable like he did, but I certainly didn’t love this either.

Final Score: 75.


Scoring Legend:

  • 95-100: As good as it gets. Jaw-dropping, eye-widening, unforgettable whisky.
  • 90-94: Sublime, a personal favorite in its category.
  • 85-89: Excellent, a standout dram.
  • 80-84: Quite good. Quality stuff.
  • 75-79: Decent whisky worth tasting.
  • 70-74: Meh. It’s definitely drinkable, but it can do better.
  • 60-69: Not so good. I might not turn down a glass if I needed a drink.
  • 50-59: Save it for mixing.
  • 0-49: Blech.

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