Part 6 of Reviews from The Auld Alliance Singapore

Review by: Whiskery Turnip

Few whisky institutions came up as often as the Auld Alliance when I told people I was returning to Singapore for a spell. The bar had long been on my list of places to pop in, but the stars had never entirely aligned. I made sure it was on the schedule for this visit and met up with a whisky friend, though he might identify more as a rum head, for a visit.

The staff was amiable, and our whisky friend was immensely helpful in navigating all the possibilities while pointing out and ensuring we did not miss any of the absolute highlights. I ticked off a few distilleries I had never tried before and could have chased even more had I wanted. We did not do an organized flight during this visit. Still, we tried to slowly crescendo through cask, abv, and flavor intensity during the evening. The reviews are split between the three below that I spent the least time with and four more single reviews of bottles that received more focused attention.

Between the people and the whisky, the Auld Alliance was magical.

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Distillery: BenRiach

Bottler: Gordon & MacPhail

Region: Scotland/Speyside Single Malt

ABV: 54.3%. Cask strength.

Age: 50 years. Distilled on 17 March 1966. Bottled on 13 July 2016.

Cask type: First Fill American Oak Hogshead.

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Nose: Rich and woody, herbal and medicinal, cherry cough syrup, kirsch, licorice, wood and plastic, molasses and orange.

Palate: Medium to full-bodied, wood, medicinal herbs, berries and citrusy tropical fruits, savory spice and ginger.

Finish: Very long with tropical fruits and medicinal spices.

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Mental Image: Dumpling Special at the Restaurant at the End of the Universe

Conclusion: Rich and woody, the aroma began with a blast of herbal medicinality that brought to mind an old American rye whisky. Those medicinal spices and herbs slowly faded, transforming into a cherry cough syrup before finally settling into a sweet kirsch and licorice. Wood and sweet plasticky PVC pipes brought to mind a hardware store, while molasses biscuits with a kiss of orange offered a richer diversion. Medium to full-bodied, the flavor profile was woody and drying with a gradual transition to layers of medicinal herbs, berries, and, finally, tropical fruits. Lacquered wood and oaky spices arrived first with peppercorns, licorice, and various medicinal herbs— a well-appointed apothecary’s shop, perhaps. Cherries and goji berries began the fruitier turn with tea tannins clinging to the sides of the palate. Orange curd and a lovely acidity developed with yuzu and then mangosteen. A final overture, a surprise dumpling course, began with well-aged vinegar leading herbal chive, pickled garlic, and ginger. The finish was incredibly long with tropical fruits and medicinal spices.

Wow. What a journey— I have no idea how all those different flavors appeared on the same malt. The flavors were distinct and well-structured, not running into each other or clashing across the palate but arriving in an orderly and rehearsed manner. The effect was incredible and surprisingly never too woody or tannic despite the long maturation as wood and medicinal spices gave way to fruit to citrus and finally to savory dumplings.

I did not expect to taste another 50-year-old malt on this trip, but here I am again. A whisky friend alerted me to the presence of this bottle, hinted that it could not be missed, and then made sure that I did not miss it at the bar. It was an incredible whisky; my wife remarked that it overshadowed everything else we tasted that evening. She can sometimes be sensitive to the level of oak influence; for instance, she found the 47-Year Coleburn we tried to be overly oaky for her taste. Yet, she thought the BenRiach was never overpowering or unpleasant while the oak was present here.

Overall, a challenging old malt and a once-in-a-lifetime experience that I will always be grateful to have had and shared.

Final Score: 98.

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Scoring Legend:

• 95-100: As good as it gets. Jaw-dropping, eye-widening, unforgettable whisky.
• 90-94: Sublime, a personal favorite in its category.
• 85-89: Excellent, a standout dram.
• 80-84: Quite good. Quality stuff.
• 75-79: Decent whisky worth tasting.
• 70-74: Meh. It’s definitely drinkable, but it can do better.
• 60-69: Not so good. I might not turn down a glass if I needed a drink.
• 50-59: Save it for mixing.
• 0-49: Blech.