Review by: Whiskery Turnip
What is this? Two Highland Park reviews in a row? It must be the beginning of a Highland Park week over at the Whiskery Turnip hermitage. Despite zSolaris’s distaste for the distillery, someone still needs to review the occasional malt from Orkney. I may not be the biggest fan; I do not always understand some of the rabid fans I have met, but I do appreciate good whisky, and Highland Park definitely puts out its own share of good whisky. This bottle says Highland Park nowhere on it; since the early 2000s, the distillery has maintained a closer hold on its branding and the use of its name.
Distillery: Unknown Orkney (presumably Highland Park)
Bottler: Thompson Brothers.
Region: Scotland/Island Single Malt.
ABV: 50%.
Age: 11 years. Distilled in 2011. Bottled in 2022.
Cask type: Refill Hogshead, Refill Coal Ila Hogshead (6 mo.).
Nose: Maritime, chalk, limestone, kelp, dehydrated citrus, charred driftwood, dried grass, subtle medicinal herbs.
Palate: Medium-bodied, gentle, citrus and chalk, maritime, oily tinned fish, citrus sorbet, hay, hints of coal, rust, and medicinal herbs.
Finish: Medium-length, mild, citrus and sea.
Mental Image: Beach Scavenging
Conclusion: The aroma was mild and straightforward, with a classic maritime profile of chalk, limestone, saltwater pools, kelp, and oily tinned fish. Citrus complimented the brine as hints of charred driftwood and dried grass appeared between dehydrated lemon slices, the occasional orange, and a hint of bubblegum. A touch of tobacco sometimes appeared while subtle medicinal herbs played around the edges— I see you, mugwort! Medium-bodied, though on the lighter side, the flavor profile was gentle with citrus and chalk. Mellow maritime delights popped with oily tinned fish and a lemony citrus sorbet to cleanse the palate. Hay and medicinal herbs arrived at the end with hints of banana, coal, and rust. The finish was medium-length and mild with citrus and sea notes.
I initially tried this blind, and while the notes were classic Highland Park, I was surprised how far in the background some of the typical coal and steamship fell. Perhaps the barley had a lower peat level, or the adjustment of the malt to 50% abv cooled off the industrial notes so more mellow citrus and maritime delights could emerge. A few of the candy notes verged on bubblegum or banana, which felt slightly askew from the other flavors when they appeared. I was not surprised to see that this was not cask strength; it was pretty gentle, if not light, on the palate. The sort of dram I like to sip on at the end of a hot day or just mindlessly unwind with on the couch.
Overall, friendly and beachy, the artwork on the bottle was altogether more terrifying than the malt inside.
Final Score: 76.
Scoring Legend:
- 95-100: As good as it gets. Jaw-dropping, eye-widening, unforgettable whisky.
- 90-94: Sublime, a personal favorite in its category.
- 85-89: Excellent, a standout dram.
- 80-84: Quite good. Quality stuff.
- 75-79: Decent whisky worth tasting.
- 70-74: Meh. It’s definitely drinkable, but it can do better.
- 60-69: Not so good. I might not turn down a glass if I needed a drink.
- 50-59: Save it for mixing.
- 0-49: Blech.
Malt Runners 