Review by: Whiskery Turnip
Highland Park week at the Whiskery Turnip house continues with another “Unnamed Orkney” from Signatory Vintage. The 2005 vintage puts this at right about when Highland Park got serious about their trademarks and branding, which spelled the end for the sale of casks permitting the distillery to be named. The choice to better control the brand seems to have paid off, considering the ubiquity of Highland Park in many markets and the general growth of the whisky industry. Certainly, other bottles have found cheekier names than just “unnamed orkney” to use. Still, one cannot fault Signatory for at least being descriptive.
Distillery: Unknown Orkney (presumably Highland Park).
Bottler: Signatory Vintage.
Region: Scotland/Island Single Malt.
ABV: 56.2%.
Age: 13 years. Distilled on 7 May 2005. Bottled on 9 Aug. 2018.
Cask type: Hogshead DRU 17A/63#72.
Nose: A touch of herbal menthol and malty biscuits, sea salt and roasted sesame, slightly acrid tobacco and tar, ash, catnip, and citrus rind.
Palate: Medium-bodied and mellow, tart citrus, salt, tobacco, fruit punch, motor oil, salt, herbal smoke and linoleum at the end.
Finish: The finish was medium-length with orange and citrus rind, tobacco ash, and menthol.
Mental Image: 24H Diner Experience.
Conclusion: Stepping back in time to a 1980s diner in which everything was infused with the sweet, acrid smell of menthol cigarettes and ash. The cigarette vending machine used to sit right inside our local dinner; the aroma led me further into malty pie crust, citrusy meringue, sesame crackers, herbal catnip, used ashtrays, and more acrid tobacco. Medium-bodied with a mellow oily quality, the flavor profile began with a lovely tart grapefruit that opened up with more blood orange and key lime before salt, menthol, and subtle tobacco emerged. A delicate fruit punch ran alongside motor oil, salt, and linoleum, which gradually faded as dried grass and herbal tobacco lingered to the end. The finish was medium-length with orange and citrus rind, tobacco ash, and menthol.
I have never had a whisky strike me with such a strong menthol cigarette vibe before. While there was a profoundly nostalgic element, I was not entirely seduced by the memory of ashtrays and smoke-soaked clothing. In fact, those memories are best left behind— if only the whisky reminded me more of pie and hot chocolate, I would feel differently.
Overall, an intriguing whisky, most likely Highland Park though one that was a bit different from the standard fare of citrus and steamships. I tend to be a bit lukewarm on Orkney malts, so if they suit your fancy, you may find this more to your taste than I did.
Final Score: 75.
Scoring Legend:
- 95-100: As good as it gets. Jaw-dropping, eye-widening, unforgettable whisky.
- 90-94: Sublime, a personal favorite in its category.
- 85-89: Excellent, a standout dram.
- 80-84: Quite good. Quality stuff.
- 75-79: Decent whisky worth tasting.
- 70-74: Meh. It’s definitely drinkable, but it can do better.
- 60-69: Not so good. I might not turn down a glass if I needed a drink.
- 50-59: Save it for mixing.
- 0-49: Blech.
Malt Runners 