Review by: Whiskery Turnip
Every year SMWS releases a number of whiskies in May celebrating the different regions of Scotland; it is their entry into the Festival season that sweeps from Islay across Speyside and beyond. Our local whisky group hosts a tasting most years with the SMWS Festival bottles so that everyone can give them a taste and give their thoughts— possibly expressing regret that they did not buy the bottle before it sold out since we typically do the tasting about a month after the bottles debut. For 2023 SMWS released a mix of single casks and small batches, or rare releases as they were called this year, for various distilleries. We focused the tasting primarily on the single casks with a handful of the more intriguing or unusual, small batches included.
The Mannochmore below was one of the few small batch/rare releases we poured at the event.
Distillery: Mannochmore.
Bottler: SMWS.
Region: Scotland/Speyside Single Malt.
ABV: 53.1%. Cask strength.
Age: 15 years. Distilled on 25 Sept. 2007.
Cask type: First-fill & Refill Spanish & American Oak PX Hogsheads, Ex-Bourbon Hogsheads
Nose: Leather, lacquered wood, walnut, cherry pits, hints of coffee, subtle lime zest and molasses, dark chocolate-caramel apples.
Palate: Medium-bodied, rich and decadent, leather, lacquered wood, subtle candle wax, star anise and pepper, orange rind, cigar box, coffee and crushed nuts, chocolate soufflé.
Finish: Medium to long with chocolate and an herbal tobacco.
Mental Image: Antique Beetle Snuff Box
Conclusion: I know it turned a few heads when SMWS labeled this 15-Year Mannochmore as an “old and dignified” malt. One international chapter explained that the category described particular qualities rather than any age assessment. There exists no magic line after which a malt becomes dignified. Such is the problem with categories; there are always edge cases and exceptions that render them a bit silly. And I do see what SMWS meant. Had I tasted this blind, I have no doubt I would have thought it was anywhere from 50-100% older than it was. It reminded me of a more balanced and mature malt infused with loads of rich sherry cask influence. I found it to be about par for the course for a quality sherry or cask-dominated profile. That is not a style I seek out, so I am confident those sherry fiends among us would rate this a notch or two higher. This was the most popular unpeated whisky at the tasting by some measure.
Final Score: 80.
Scoring Legend:
- 95-100: As good as it gets. Jaw-dropping, eye-widening, unforgettable whisky.
- 90-94: Sublime, a personal favorite in its category.
- 85-89: Excellent, a standout dram.
- 80-84: Quite good. Quality stuff.
- 75-79: Decent whisky worth tasting.
- 70-74: Meh. It’s definitely drinkable, but it can do better.
- 60-69: Not so good. I might not turn down a glass if I needed a drink.
- 50-59: Save it for mixing.
- 0-49: Blech.
Malt Runners 