Review by: Whiskery Turnip
Every year SMWS releases a number of whiskies in May celebrating the different regions of Scotland; it is their entry into the Festival season that sweeps from Islay across Speyside and beyond. Our local whisky group hosts a tasting most years with the SMWS Festival bottles so that everyone can give them a taste and give their thoughts— possibly expressing regret that they did not buy the bottle before it sold out since we typically do the tasting about a month after the bottles debut. For 2023 SMWS released a mix of single casks and small batches, or rare releases as they were called this year, for various distilleries. We focused the tasting primarily on the single casks with a handful of the more intriguing or unusual, small batches included.
This beautiful heavily peated Bunnahabhain was one of the single cask festival releases poured at the event. It was hands down the star of the afternoon and the belle of the ball.
Distillery: Bunnahabhain.
Bottler: SMWS.
Region: Scotland/Islay Single Malt.
ABV: 59.6%.
Age: 9 years. Distilled in Oct. 2013.
Cask type: Bourbon Hogshead (5Y), 2nd Fill Oloroso Hogshead.
Nose: Maritime, dried grass, kelp, campfire, fish smoking shed, hints of tobacco, minerality— rocky shoreline and tide pools, subtle metallic iron or rust, tar, shoyu, barbecue, slight vinegar twang on occasion.
Palate: Medium-bodied, rich smoke, burning medicinal herbs, camphor, sage, coastal and salty, beachside campfire, hints of fruity plums or tomato chutney.
Finish: Medium-length with salt, barbecue smoke, and dry grass.
Mental Image: Salmon in a Smoking Jacket
Conclusion: Now, this was more like it. I heard from multiple people that this was their favorite bottle at the Festival tasting— or at least their second favorite behind the Bowmore. I have not always loved the heavily peated Bunnahbahain from SMWS; they have sometimes felt sweeter, almost praline-like, compared to releases from other bottles. I have no idea if that was a product of the fermentation or distillation on the days SMWS contracted to fill their casks or some other factor. However, there have been some real gems, and this was undoubtedly one of them. The final four-year maturation in a second-fill oloroso hogshead elevated some of the peated malt’s richer, almost umami-like qualities without overpowering or dominating the experience. I love a good refill cask, especially when it accentuates rather than overwhelms the experience.
Final Score: 85.
Scoring Legend:
- 95-100: As good as it gets. Jaw-dropping, eye-widening, unforgettable whisky.
- 90-94: Sublime, a personal favorite in its category.
- 85-89: Excellent, a standout dram.
- 80-84: Quite good. Quality stuff.
- 75-79: Decent whisky worth tasting.
- 70-74: Meh. It’s definitely drinkable, but it can do better.
- 60-69: Not so good. I might not turn down a glass if I needed a drink.
- 50-59: Save it for mixing.
- 0-49: Blech.
Malt Runners 