Review by: Raygun

I promised to mark my century of American whiskey reviews with some serious wheaters, and that’s what I’ll do. First up is this, the biannual wheated special release from Heaven Hill. Old Fitzgerald has been around for over a century, but this particular incarnation of the brand goes back to 1999 when Heaven Hill purchased the brand and Bernheim distillery from Diageo. The first release of Heaven Hill distillate Old Fitzgerald was in 2018, so this was just a year later in fall 2019. Reviewed from a sample. Rested about 10 minutes.

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Distillery: Heaven Hill

Brand: Old Fitzgerald

Region/style: Kentucky straight bourbon

ABV: 50%. 

Age: 15 years. Released in fall 2019, so distilled sometime in 2004.   

Cask type: New charred oak  

Color:  1.6 mahogany. Natural color. 

Price: A lot

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Nose: Brown sugar, chocolate-covered cherries, cotton candy. Then some root beer float with vanilla ice cream.   

Palate: Root beer float starts off. Oak flavors kick up with some cinnamon and nutmeg, but pretty restrained for 15 years. Get the chocolate from the nose, but not the cherries now. Reminds me of a Mexican chocolate mousse I once had. I take it back: the cherries are there, but not as evident.     

Finish: Some caramelized banana shows up, which I wasn’t expecting. With vanilla ice cream and some root beer. Doesn’t sound like a bad dessert, come to think of it. Some nutmeg and the barest dusting of cinnamon. Nice length, especially with the vanilla ice cream and root beer.  

Conclusion: I like it. Of course a different experience than something barrel proof. More finesse than sheer power. Dangerous drinkable, really. Not lacking in flavor, with some nice subtleties to it. The root beer is front and center, though. The finish is really the star here, which is impressive for something at 50%. Better than Larceny BP for sure.   

Buy a bottle? At MSRP sure, but what are the chances of that?

Final score: 85

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Scoring Legend:

• 95-100: As good as it gets. Jaw-dropping, eye-widening, unforgettable whisky.
• 90-94: Sublime, a personal favorite in its category. (Blanton’s Straight from the Barrel)
• 85-89: Excellent, a standout dram. (Stagg Jr batch 12)
• 80-84: Quite good. Quality stuff. (Elijah Craig Barrel Proof (new))
• 75-79: Decent whisky worth tasting. (Pikesville Rye)
• 70-74: Meh. It’s definitely drinkable, but it can do better. (Wild Turkey 101)
• 60-69: Not so good. I might not turn down a glass if I needed a drink. (Maker’s Mark)
• 50-59: Save it for mixing. (Old Grandad 114)
• 0-49: Blech. (High West Yippee-ki-yay)