Review by: Whiskery Turnip
Distillery: Blended Scotch Whisky.
Bottler: White Horse Distillers (Distillers Company Limited).
Region: Scotland/Blend.
ABV: 43.4%. Cask strength.
Age: 8 years. Bottled c. 1936-1939.
Cask type: Oak.
Nose: Shrimp trawler or fishing boat, brine, shrimp, diesel engine, wet wood, bait, rubber boots, hot tar, faint citrus.
Palate: Light body and mellow brine, sweet prawn, barbecued shellfish, coastal, grilled lobster and prawn, mountain yams, charcoal grilled yam— sweet caramelized starchy cream, slightly salt, faint hints of orange and lemon citrus, brûléed sugars and machine oil at the end.
Finish: Medium-length with brine, rubber boots, and grilled yam.
Mental Image: Sepia-Toned Shrimp Boats.
Conclusion: The score is not real. How could I realistically rate a century-old blended whisky? It was fantastic, and I have no idea how much of that was the romance of the bottle and the delight at discovering it did not taste like cabbage water (or wet cardboard, two genuine possibilities with old whiskies). The fact that this sat in the bottle for a century beggars belief, and I was astonished at how crystal clear the flavors were and wondered how it tasted at the time of bottling? I do not have much experience with old White Horse bottles, but I have heard they are of varying quality.
I love a good maritime flavor profile, and this had tons of excellent maritime notions with just a bit of citrus. It was vaguely recognizable in terms of what you might expect to find on the Lagavulin 8 Year, though with the fruits mellowed to just a whisper in the background. Everything about this whisky worked for me, and, if I could, I would stock up on this to drink more regularly. Though would it taste the same, not being what was likely a once-in-a-lifetime experience?
Overall, the romance of the bottle precludes a real score, but I included a 91 because I thought this was exceptional and some people really need to see a number. This was likely my one chance to try anything containing the long-destroyed Malt Mill Distillery, a replica of Laphroaig that operated on the same grounds as Lagavulin from 1908 to 1962.
Final Score: No Score (but 91 if you insist.)
Scoring Legend:
- 95-100: As good as it gets. Jaw-dropping, eye-widening, unforgettable whisky.
- 90-94: Sublime, a personal favorite in its category.
- 85-89: Excellent, a standout dram.
- 80-84: Quite good. Quality stuff.
- 75-79: Decent whisky worth tasting.
- 70-74: Meh. It’s definitely drinkable, but it can do better.
- 60-69: Not so good. I might not turn down a glass if I needed a drink.
- 50-59: Save it for mixing.
- 0-49: Blech.
Malt Runners 