Review by: Raygun

Courtesy of an extremely generous friend, I was gifted a set of samples from one of the virtual masterclasses from the 2021 Whisky Show: Old and Rare run by The Whisky Exchange. A set of six drams selected by Angus MacRaild, Jonny McMillan, and Sukinder Singh. This is an official bottling from Highland Park. Not often I get to try stuff distilled before I was born. Reviewed from a sample. Rested about 10 minutes.

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Distillery: Highland Park 

Bottler: Highland Park

Region/style: Islands single malt Scotch

ABV: 43%

Age: 17 years. Distilled in 1960. Bottled in 1977 or 1978, doesn’t say. 

Cask type: Unspecified, but looks to be a sherry cask.

Color: 1.5 auburn. Natural color. Non-chill-filtered.

Price: Around £1200

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Nose: Yes, that’s a sherry cask. And an incredibly rich one. Figs, prunes, brown sugar, gingerbread, chocolate, and orange. That might be getting somewhat close. 

Palate: Plum sauce, orange, figs, gingerbread. Fruity, but also savory with a hoisin sauce kind of umami flavor. Some clove. Rich and thick, even at this ABV. There’s so much going on, it’s hard to isolate specific notes. The depth of flavor is special. Very different than most modern sherry casks. 

Finish: The dried fruit is prominent. Figs and prunes. There’s a savory aspect, like Chinese black plums. Dried orange peel. Assam tea. Impressive length for 43%.  

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Conclusion: Can’t say I’ve had a lot of similar experiences to compare this to. I’ve had brandies older than this, but never a Scotch this old. It’s old enough to be a sherry transport cask, and I wonder if it is. It’s certainly very different from modern sherried whiskies. The depth and richness is remarkable, especially for something diluted to 43%. It still holds up. The peat is hardly noticeable, as is usually the case for Highland Park for me, but there is that great savory edge. Brings it to that extra level. Fantastic. 

Buy a bottle? If I win the lottery.

Final Score: 93

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Scoring Legend:

• 95-100: As good as it gets. Jaw-dropping, eye-widening, unforgettable whisky. (Convalmore 36)
• 90-94: Sublime, a personal favorite in its category. (Bruichladdich Black Art 4.1)
• 85-89: Excellent, a standout dram. (Ledaig 13 Amontillado)
• 80-84: Quite good. Quality stuff. (Tomatin 18)
• 75-79: Decent whisky worth tasting. (Glen Scotia 15)
• 70-74: Meh. It’s definitely drinkable, but it can do better. (Aultmore 12)
• 60-69: Not so good. I might not turn down a glass if I needed a drink. (Glenmorangie 10)
• 50-59: Save it for mixing. (Old Pulteney 12)
• 0-49: Blech. (Muirhead’s Silver Seal 16)