Review by: Whiskery Turnip
Distillery: Bunnahabhain.
Bottler: SMWS.
Region: Scotland/Islay Single Malt.
ABV: 59.2%. Cask Strength.
Age: 14 Years. Distilled on 22 Oct. 2008. Bottled March 2023.
Cask type: Bourbon Hogshead (10Y), First Fill Spanish Oak Oloroso Hogshead.
Nose: Dark chocolate fudge, dried grass, old worn leather, mellow coastal salinity, mothballs and dust, smoked fish and a hint of charred wood.
Palate: Medium to full-bodied, chocolate-covered citrus, lime and lemon zest, charred wood, anise, cherry tarts, tannic and woody, lacquered wood and cherry pits, dried musty hay and earth, a touch of balsamic with more time.
Finish: Long and drying with salt, wood, and earth.
Mental Image: Michelin Starred Fish Shack-based Chocolatier.
Conclusion: SMWS bottled this intense teenage Bunnahabhain for the 30th anniversary of the American chapter of the society. I am still surprised they managed to get a big 30 approved on the label without the word anniversary stamped next to it. I know at least a few people saw that and got confused about the age— which is otherwise clearly labeled. Perhaps the society assumed its members could read. Still, anyone taking in the label at just a glance might easily reach the wrong conclusion. Before anyone starts with some mad conspiracy, these bottles were only sold to society members, and this, I believe, was only available through lottery; you can rest easy that the website, announcement emails, and messaging clearly indicated the age; hopefully, no one managed to trick themselves. It’s weird, though, that that could even be an option.
Okay, so enough about labeling; how was the whisky? I enjoyed it, but my wife did not. She found it too sherried and sweet for her taste, a bit one note and lacking the complexity she hoped to find. I got more out of the whisky, especially coastal and slightly fishy notes that she never did. It was an intense affair, and I have a feeling this is the sort of bottle that will evolve and develop nicely once it has been opened, as I often find heavily sherried malts like this benefit from more time to breathe.
Overall, a punchy affair with tons of sherry-driven chocolate and fruits. I loved that a bit of balsamic appeared near the end and hope that note continues to develop as I do have a bottle of this. I was impressed to find some of the grassy, coastal Bunnahabhain character still thrumming along in the background and occasionally rising above the sherried surf.
Final Score: 86.
Scoring Legend:
- 95-100: As good as it gets. Jaw-dropping, eye-widening, unforgettable whisky.
- 90-94: Sublime, a personal favorite in its category.
- 85-89: Excellent, a standout dram.
- 80-84: Quite good. Quality stuff.
- 75-79: Decent whisky worth tasting.
- 70-74: Meh. It’s definitely drinkable, but it can do better.
- 60-69: Not so good. I might not turn down a glass if I needed a drink.
- 50-59: Save it for mixing.
- 0-49: Blech.
Malt Runners 