Review by: The Muskox

K&L had already sold out of this Arran pick when I visited in November. For what they were selling it at, I’d probably have picked up a bottle blind. I’ll have to be satisfied with my sample.

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Distillery: Arran.

Bottler: Douglas Laing.

Region: Islands.

ABV: 60.5%. Cask strength.

Age: 9 years. Distilled in 2013. Bottled in 2023.

Cask type: First-fill bourbon barrel.

Price: $70 at K&L Wines in California.

Color: 1.2, Chestnut, Oloroso Sherry. Natural Color. Non-chill-filtered.

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Nose: Very fresh. Wet grass, mild mint and basil, even some cucumber. Pear, citrus oils, banana peel, peach, and honey. Rich flavours of wax and butter, along with pralines-and-cream. Slightly leathery.

A dribble of water takes things into an earthier and toastier direction.

Palate: Medium texture, moderate heat and tannin. Arrives fragrant and herbaceous, with coconut, honey and orchard fruit. Rich beeswax and strong fresh oak on the development, leading to nutmeg, baking chocolate, and dried flowers. Charred wood and dry earth on the back end.

Water takes out some out the heat and adds rich perfume, vanilla, and tropical fruit (banana, guava). Sunflower seeds and toasted sourdough. Wool sweaters.

Finish: Medium-length and bittersweet, rather drying. Honey candies, caramel, pralines, nougat. Lemon peel and fresh herbs, a little earthy and mineral. Bourbon-ish.

With the water, it’s a bit sweeter and less dry here. Bubblegum, maple syrup, and cantaloupe.

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Possible SMWS bottling name: “Scones on lawns on loan”

Conclusion: Super interesting, an oaky but remarkably powerful and complex young whisky. That dark colour foretells the strong cask influence here. The weirdness of the colour combined with the fact that the cask only yielded 82 bottles makes me think that something funky happened during maturation. Whatever that was, I hope it can be replicated in the future. The oak and herbs are intense, but offset by beautiful caramel-honey richness and strong fragrance and fruit. It’s Linkwood crossed with Wild Turkey.

I haven’t had a truly great example of Arran at this age in a while. I’m happy (though not surprised) they’re still being bottled, and sad to have missed out on this one.

Final Score: 88.

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Scoring Legend:

• 95-100: As good as it gets. Jaw-dropping, eye-widening, unforgettable whisky.
• 90-94: Sublime, a personal favorite in its category.
• 85-89: Excellent, a standout dram.
• 80-84: Quite good. Quality stuff.
• 75-79: Decent whisky worth tasting.
• 70-74: Meh. It’s definitely drinkable, but it can do better.
• 60-69: Not so good. I might not turn down a glass if I needed a drink.
• 50-59: Save it for mixing.
• 0-49: Blech.