Review by: Raygun

Courtesy of an extremely generous friend, I was gifted a set of samples from one of the virtual masterclasses from the 2021 Whisky Show: Old and Rare run by The Whisky Exchange. A set of six drams selected by Angus MacRaild, Jonny McMillan, and Sukinder Singh. This is a Port Ellen released by Signatory Vintage in their Silent Stills line. Had one other Port Ellen, but not from the 70s. Reviewed from a sample. Rested about 20 minutes.

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Distillery: Port Ellen 

Bottler: Signatory Vintage

Region/style: Islay single malt Scotch

ABV: 59.2%. Cask strength. 

Age: 22 years. Distilled on November 30, 1974, bottled on May 15, 1997. 

Cask type: Not specified, but looks like a bourbon cask. #6754, 260 bottles. Likely a hogshead. 

Color: 0.5 yellow gold. Natural color. Non-chill-filtered.

Price: A mini sold on auction for £130. We can extrapolate from there

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Nose: Not as peaty as I expected. There is the briny, slightly tarry smell that I remember from my previous Port Ellen experience. A seafood grill going on next to a roofing project. Lemon and orange glazed scones.    

Palate: Whoa. About the most coastal whisky I’ve ever had. The flavors of a beachside clambake: grilled shrimp, clams, and scallops, with a generous squeeze of lemon and a side of charred fennel. A hint of sweetness. Some of the wood for cooking this seafood may have come from an old ship, because there’s the dirty, tarry element. Drinks very easily for 59%.   

Finish: Long and lingering. Fennel and rosemary. The sweet and savory flavors of grilled scallops and shrimp. Mopping up after the seafood meal with some charred bread. With a touch of pear jam. Slightly mineral, like a Riesling. Matches the intensity of the palate. 

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Conclusion: Always hard to review this sort of unicorn sample. In this case, I do think it would be obviously special even if I didn’t know what it was. Rarely have I tried something so coastal, and with that tarry sort of element it’s like a pirate ship anchored off a Caribbean island for a beach barbecue. The peat is obvious, but you taste more. A whole lot in each sip. Great stuff.  

Buy a bottle? Slightly out of my range.

Score: 91

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Scoring Legend:

• 95-100: As good as it gets. Jaw-dropping, eye-widening, unforgettable whisky. (Convalmore 36)
• 90-94: Sublime, a personal favorite in its category. (Bruichladdich Black Art 4.1)
• 85-89: Excellent, a standout dram. (Ledaig 13 Amontillado)
• 80-84: Quite good. Quality stuff. (Tomatin 18)
• 75-79: Decent whisky worth tasting. (Glen Scotia 15)
• 70-74: Meh. It’s definitely drinkable, but it can do better. (Aultmore 12)
• 60-69: Not so good. I might not turn down a glass if I needed a drink. (Glenmorangie 10)
• 50-59: Save it for mixing. (Old Pulteney 12)
• 0-49: Blech. (Muirhead’s Silver Seal 16)