Review by: Whiskery Turnip
Distillery: Laphroaig.
Bottler: SMWS.
Region: Scotland/Islay Single Malt.
ABV: 51.7%. Cask Strength.
Age: 18 Years. Distilled on 13 May 1998.
Cask type: Bourbon Hogshead (17 Years). First Fill American Oak PX Sherry Hogshead.
Nose: Sweet smoked meat and smoldering coals in the grill; brown sugar, pepper, and herbs on caramelizing pork fat; drippings sizzle on the coals; mellow earth and sea, hints of petrichor, decay, and maritime breezes.
Palate: Medium-bodied, mild and slightly oily, grilled fruit, bacon, and smoldering coals; lightly grilled watermelon with mellow maritime brine, subtle iron, roasted barley tea and crispy pork belly, beach sand and old driftwood at the end.
Finish: Medium to long with subtle grilled fruit, salt, and a touch of herbal tobacco.
Mental Image: Grill Crew Assembles.
Conclusion: Delightfully mellow, this Laphroaig felt much older than 18 years as it showcased a remarkable balance between fruits, herbs, acrid smoke, and maritime brine. Those elements are often present with Laphroaig, but depending on the age and maturation, they appear at varying intensity levels. Depending on how the flavors integrate, they can also pair up in interesting ways, such as the grilled watermelon and tropical fruits that emerged after some initial meatiness faded— which seemed to happen quicker on subsequent tastings.
Considering the remarkable balance of flavors and the soft, slightly oily mouthfeel, I had assumed this was matured in a refill sherry butt, not finished in a first-fill American oak PX hogshead. I often find those finishes too aggressive, yet, to my great surprise, here was an example of a cask finish perfectly integrated with the core elements of the whisky.
Overall, a fantastic Laphroaig— some view 1998 as a legendary vintage for the distillery, and with drams such as this, it is not hard to see why.
Final Score: 86.
Scoring Legend:
- 95-100: As good as it gets. Jaw-dropping, eye-widening, unforgettable whisky.
- 90-94: Sublime, a personal favorite in its category.
- 85-89: Excellent, a standout dram.
- 80-84: Quite good. Quality stuff.
- 75-79: Decent whisky worth tasting.
- 70-74: Meh. It’s definitely drinkable, but it can do better.
- 60-69: Not so good. I might not turn down a glass if I needed a drink.
- 50-59: Save it for mixing.
- 0-49: Blech.
Malt Runners 