Review by: Raygun

Fettercairn is part of the Whyte & Mackay group, also owners of Dalmore, Jura, and Tamnavulin. Not the most impressive single malt lineup, I think it’s fair to say. Fettercairn itself got a revamped OB core range in 2018, with a 12, 16, 22, and 24. The 12 is unfortunately bottled at 40%, but the others are at a more respectable strength. Haven’t had any OBs, but I’ve tried a few IBs and they mostly haven’t left a strong impression. This would be an unusual one, from the period when the distillery used stainless steel condensers. Rested about 10 minutes. Notes from fully blind tasting, with reveal after. Reviewed from a sample. 

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Distillery: Fettercairn

Bottler: Lady of the Glen

Region/style: Highlands single malt whisky

ABV: 57.6% 

Age: 12 years. Distilled on November 21, 2008, bottled on April 16, 2021. 

Cask type: First fill bourbon barrel #5120, 249 bottles. 

Color: 0.8 deep gold. Natural color. Non-chill-filtered.

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Nose: Apple juice, fruit gum, and plenty of cereal. No peat here, I don’t think. A little coastal aspect and a subtle earthiness. 

Palate: Caramel and cereal forward. This is a malty one. There’s a little spice as well. Apple turnovers. Even more caramel, and cream soda. Definitely thinking bourbon cask, and 56%+. Maybe even near 60%. Does well with water. 

Finish: Caramel chews, apples, and again lots of malt. Not a whole lot of oak. Some dark chocolate. Again subtle earthiness. Good length. 

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Guess: Initially seemed like a fairly conventional Speyside or Highland, but more attention brought out revealed some unusual features. Has a certain weightiness and a touch of earth. Something a little different is going on here. Bourbon cask, 10 years, maybe even younger. Could it be Ben Nevis? 

Conclusion: This grew on me. Benefits from some focus, and then the subtle aspects come into focus. Which is not to say that it’s a subtle pour overall, but the little nuances that make it stand out could be overlooked. I like that it brings something different than most young-ish ex-bourbon Scotches.  

Post-reveal thoughts: Did pretty well on this one: close on age and ABV, and it was a bourbon cask. Fettercairn is more interesting than I’ve given them credit for. Previous experiences were nothing too exciting, and I don’t want to oversell this one, but it had some unusual qualities. There’s a sea of similarly-aged bourbon casks put out by IBs, and most (in my experience) aren’t especially distinctive. I appreciate it when one brings something different to the table, as this does. 

Buy a bottle? This is a nice one.     

Score: 81

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Scoring Legend:

• 95-100: As good as it gets. Jaw-dropping, eye-widening, unforgettable whisky. (Convalmore 36)
• 90-94: Sublime, a personal favorite in its category. (Bruichladdich Black Art 4.1)
• 85-89: Excellent, a standout dram. (Ledaig 13 Amontillado)
• 80-84: Quite good. Quality stuff. (Tomatin 18)
• 75-79: Decent whisky worth tasting. (Glen Scotia 15)
• 70-74: Meh. It’s definitely drinkable, but it can do better. (Aultmore 12)
• 60-69: Not so good. I might not turn down a glass if I needed a drink. (Glenmorangie 10)
• 50-59: Save it for mixing. (Old Pulteney 12)
• 0-49: Blech. (Muirhead’s Silver Seal 16)