Review by: dustbunna
Distillery: Craigellachie.
Bottler: Distillery bottling.
Region: Speyside, Scotland.
ABV: 55.1%. Cask strength.
Age: 23 years. Distilled in 1999. Bottled in 2022.
Cask type: Oloroso sherry cask.
Price: $110 USD for 233mL (bottle split, full price $330 USD for 700mL.)
Natural Color. Non-chill-filtered.
Bottle open across approx. 9 months, notes taken leisurely across that period. Bold notes taken beneath the shoulder, regular-formatted notes taken further into the bottle past the halfway point, italicized notes taken towards the heel.
Nose: bright red fruits, dried pineapple rings, cola, oregano, oyster sauce, cocoa powder, broken branches, Dole fruit cups, water brings out pineapple candy and wet grass, charcuterie meats.
Palate: thick, full-bodied ~ more cola, barbeque drippings, black raspberries, minerals, pepper, dusty books, lots of background herbs, water turns it a little meatier, beef broth, coal soot, apple cider.
Finish: medium length ~ more pepper and wet grass, flashes of cola and pineapple, more beef broth and minerals, mint, more coal soot.
Conclusion: Outstanding stuff. This recalls Craigellachie’s standard 23yr, amped up to full volume with a Mortlach/Benrinnes-style meatiness coming through (I suppose from the multi-decade interaction with a quality Oloroso cask.) Complexity is high; the balance of fruit, savory, and mineralic elements is excellent, and patience is rewarded letting this rest a while before sipping it. These Dewar’s Exceptional Casks have a great reputation, which seems well deserved based on the few I’ve had the privilege to taste so far. This one was exclusive to Binny’s in Chicago, and three of us Coloradans split this bottle to lower the individual cost. I start wringing my hands thinking about spending this kind of money by myself on a full bottle, but I’ll be damned if whisky like this doesn’t make me consider it.
Final Score: 92.
Scoring Legend:
- 95-100: As good as it gets. Jaw-dropping, eye-widening, unforgettable whisky.
- 90-94: Sublime, a personal favorite in its category.
- 85-89: Excellent, a standout dram.
- 80-84: Quite good. Quality stuff.
- 75-79: Decent whisky worth tasting.
- 70-74: Meh. It’s definitely drinkable, but it can do better.
- 60-69: Not so good. I might not turn down a glass if I needed a drink.
- 50-59: Save it for mixing.
- 0-49: Blech.
Malt Runners 