Review by: Raygun

Tamdhu was purchased by independent bottler Ian MacLeod in 2011, also owners of Glengoyne and the recently reopened Rosebank. Tamdhu boasts of using only Oloroso casks for maturation. This policy apparently originated under the previous owners Edrington, and that’s when this cask would have been filled. Rested about 15 minutes.

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Distillery: Tamdhu  

Bottler: Cadenhead’s  

Region/style: Speyside single malt Scotch

ABV: 56.4%  

Age: 15 years. Distilled in 2007 and bottled in winter 2023. 

Cask type: Oloroso sherry cask (likely a hogshead), 240 bottles.

Color: 1.8 old oak. Natural color and chill-filtered.

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Nose: Tobacco, prunes, cherry cordial. Oloroso mustiness. Despite the color, it’s not overwhelmingly sherried. Or overwhelmingly fruity, I should say, as that’s more accurate. It’s a dry, musty sort of sherry, with a hint of meatiness.             

Palate: Starts dry here, too. Some cherries and prunes, but more tobacco and dried mushrooms. Some hoisin sauce, balsamic vinegar, and tomato paste. Turns a little sweeter in the mouth, but it’s still pretty dry and tannic. A spicy sort of sherry as well, with ancho chile, cumin, and cinnamon.  

Finish: Cherry slushie, hoisin sauce, dried mushrooms. Some cumin and oregano. Turns very dry again, and quite tannic. Aged balsamic vinegar and overbrewed tea. Quite a bit of spice still.    

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Conclusion: Not your everyday sherry bomb, and not too similar to the Tamdhu OBs I’ve had. Dry and spicy, with more mushroom and bean sauce umami than fruity flavors. I’d call it a little challenging. It certainly does show that sherry casks aren’t all the same. I’d guess this is European oak, with this level of spice and tannins. Not at the level of the LMDW cask I tried about a year ago, but surely cheaper, too. Tamdhu is a good source for heavy sherry, though it’s not a style I seek out much these days.

Score: 82

Scoring Legend:

• 95-100: As good as it gets. Jaw-dropping, eye-widening, unforgettable whisky. (Convalmore 36)
• 90-94: Sublime, a personal favorite in its category. (Bruichladdich Black Art 4.1)
• 85-89: Excellent, a standout dram. (Ledaig 13 Amontillado)
• 80-84: Quite good. Quality stuff. (Tomatin 18)
• 75-79: Decent whisky worth tasting. (Glen Scotia 15)
• 70-74: Meh. It’s definitely drinkable, but it can do better. (Aultmore 12)
• 60-69: Not so good. I might not turn down a glass if I needed a drink. (Glenmorangie 10)
• 50-59: Save it for mixing. (Old Pulteney 12)
• 0-49: Blech. (Muirhead’s Silver Seal 16)