Review by: Raygun

Signatory released a series of (appropriately) about 30 bottles to celebrate its 30th anniversary. All old stuff; the youngest was 20 years old and they went up to a 50 year old Bunnahabhain. Heavy hitters, with prices to match. Not surprisingly, this will be the first I’ve tried. Reviewed from a sample. Rested about 20 minutes.

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Distillery: Bunnahabhain 

Bottler: Signatory Vintage    

Region/style: Islay single malt Scotch

ABV: 47.8%

Age: 40 years old. Distilled on April 3, 1978 and bottled on June 12, 2018. Oldest Bunna I’ve tried by a good margin.      

Cask type: Refill sherry butt #2587, 484 bottles

Color: 1.8 old oak. Natural color and non-chill-filtered.

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Nose: The kind of rancio I expect in cognac rather than Scotch. Oranges, grapes, mushrooms, a dirt floor in a cellar. Hints of Moroccan spice. This is the kind of nose I could sit with for a long time.                         

Palate: Again I could believe this is cognac instead of Scotch. Raisins, candied orange peel, chocolate, cranberries, and currants. Gets a bit meaty with Moroccan lamb tagine, rich with spices. Lots of oak, as one would expect, but not too tannic. Darjeeling tea and grape soda.      

Finish: Super long. Orange, cherries, cranberries, and currants. The earthy and somewhat foresty flavor is back. Rich, but not quite as meaty: the sauce from the tagine without the meat. Intense, with a good blend of sweet, spicy, and savory. Doesn’t seem to end. 

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Conclusion: Remarkable stuff with a lot of the character of old cognac. Intense for sure, but doesn’t get overbearing. A dram that demands focus. There are links back to the 12 in the briny character in particular, though of course this is on a different level. I expected Signatory would pick some of their best for this anniversary series, and this did not disappoint in any way. It’s been a good year for me so I can’t say this is the best pour I’ve had, but it’s in the top few for sure. Can’t say I’ll be looking to get a bottle at these prices, though I wish I could.

Score: 93

Scoring Legend:

• 95-100: As good as it gets. Jaw-dropping, eye-widening, unforgettable whisky. (Convalmore 36)
• 90-94: Sublime, a personal favorite in its category. (Bruichladdich Black Art 4.1)
• 85-89: Excellent, a standout dram. (Ledaig 13 Amontillado)
• 80-84: Quite good. Quality stuff. (Tomatin 18)
• 75-79: Decent whisky worth tasting. (Glen Scotia 15)
• 70-74: Meh. It’s definitely drinkable, but it can do better. (Aultmore 12)
• 60-69: Not so good. I might not turn down a glass if I needed a drink. (Glenmorangie 10)
• 50-59: Save it for mixing. (Old Pulteney 12)
• 0-49: Blech. (Muirhead’s Silver Seal 16)