Review by: Raygun

I’ve been doing a fair number of Tobermory and Ledaig releases in the last couple of months, and here’s one more. I’m not sure I’ve had a fully bourbon matured Tobermory before. This is an old one, dating from not long after the distillery was reopened. Reviewed from a sample. Rested about 20 minutes.
Distillery: Tobermory
Bottler: Thompson Brothers
Region/style: Islands single malt Scotch
ABV: 49.7%. Cask strength.
Age: 27 years old. Distilled on December 6, 1995 and bottled in December 2022.
Cask type: Refill hogshead, 285 bottles
Color: 1.1 burnished. Natural color and non-chill-filtered.
Nose: Warm and inviting. Cookies with caramel drizzle, grapefruit, pineapple, a little peach. A touch of something herbal. A little salted plum, too.
Palate: Very caramel driven, with the same buttery pastry quality as the nose but even stronger. Citrusy, but now I can’t quite make up my mind between grapefruit and lemon. Still grapefruit, I’d say. Maybe pomelo. Mango and a little banana, but fortunately not too much. The herbal flavor I can’t quite identify is driving me nuts.
Finish: Caramel cookies, grapefruit, and that little bit of banana that comes out of left field. Some green mango. The sprinkle of salt seems a little stronger. Citrus picks up with a pleasant zing. Pretty consistent between palate and finish. Very little heat.
Conclusion: A great Tobermory, even if I’m not as enamored of it as some. Unlike Ledaig, which is a model of consistency to me, Tobermory is up and down. This one is all up. More tart and citrusy than tropical to my palate, with a definite pastry aspect. Thorougly enjoyable, and now it seems I need to keep an eye out for more bourbon-aged Tobermory.
Score: 88
Scoring Legend:
- 95-100: As good as it gets. Jaw-dropping, eye-widening, unforgettable whisky. (Convalmore 36)
- 90-94: Sublime, a personal favorite in its category. (Bruichladdich Black Art 4.1)
- 85-89: Excellent, a standout dram. (Ledaig 13 Amontillado)
- 80-84: Quite good. Quality stuff. (Tomatin 18)
- 75-79: Decent whisky worth tasting. (Glen Scotia 15)
- 70-74: Meh. It’s definitely drinkable, but it can do better. (Aultmore 12)
- 60-69: Not so good. I might not turn down a glass if I needed a drink. (Glenmorangie 10)
- 50-59: Save it for mixing. (Old Pulteney 12)
- 0-49: Blech. (Muirhead’s Silver Seal 16)