SMWS 12.67 Horseback in the Forest (Benriach 12)

Review by: Raygun

Benriach is one of my most reviewed distilleries, even though I wouldn’t call myself a special fan. One reason is they just do so many different things: peated, unpeated, sherry casks, wine casks, rum casks, etc. Up there with Bruichladdich for variety. It’s also a little surprising SMWS has relatively few releases, but I suppose Benriach does so many single casks themselves that there aren’t so many left for IBs. Reviewed from a sample thanks to Whiskery Turnip. Rested about 20 minutes.


Distillery: Benriach 

Bottler: Scotch Malt Whisky Society

Region/style: Speyside single malt Scotch

ABV: 57%. Cask strength. 

Age: 12 years. Distilled December 8, 2008. 

Cask type: First a bourbon cask, then a second-fill red wine barrique.

Color: 1.3 russet. Natural color. Non-chill-filtered.


Nose: Brambley at first sniff. Some leather, blackberries, and raspberries. Some earthy, vegetal funk. Burnt wood, but not peated.    

Palate: Pretty hot. Got the brambley aspect again, and definitely taste the berries. The wine influence is very clear, even with a second-fill cask. Has an extra kind of roasted or charred flavor, which I noticed on a Linkwood that was a charred red wine cask. That might be the case here, too. Like almost burnt toast. Water brings out the berry flavors nicely. 

Finish: Leathery again, berries, and brambles. That charred flavor again. Some Darjeeling tea. Not overly woody, but still quite astringent. Does well with water here too, which again intensifies the fruit and brings out some caramel. 

Conclusion: SMWS names are sometimes silly, but this one makes sense. Earthy and brambley, with a distinct leather aspect. Fortunately no horse. Unpeated red wine casks have a checkered history with me; not something that always works. This isn’t too winey, though it does take some effort to wrestle it under control. Ends up interesting, but not quite my sort of thing. I prefer peated Benriach. I’m fine with a sample. 

Buy a bottle? Not something I’d seek out.

Score: 78


Scoring Legend:

  • 95-100: As good as it gets. Jaw-dropping, eye-widening, unforgettable whisky. (Convalmore 36)
  • 90-94: Sublime, a personal favorite in its category. (Bruichladdich Black Art 4.1)
  • 85-89: Excellent, a standout dram. (Ledaig 13 Amontillado)
  • 80-84: Quite good. Quality stuff. (Tomatin 18)
  • 75-79: Decent whisky worth tasting. (Glen Scotia 15)
  • 70-74: Meh. It’s definitely drinkable, but it can do better. (Aultmore 12)
  • 60-69: Not so good. I might not turn down a glass if I needed a drink. (Glenmorangie 10)
  • 50-59: Save it for mixing. (Old Pulteney 12)
  • 0-49: Blech. (Muirhead’s Silver Seal 16)

Leave a comment