Review by: Raygun

I hadn’t bought anything from a core range in some time, but I’d heard lots of good things about Craigellachie 17 and I wasn’t going to get a better deal than I got on it. Had the 13, the Bas-Armagnac finish, and a couple of IBs, but none of the higher age statements. The 13 is one of the best deals out there in my opinion. Still around $50, and very solid. The 17 is matured in both ex-bourbon and sherry casks, and then finished half in first-fill bourbon and half in first-fill sherry. It is a big step up in price, in the US especially. Is it an equal step up in quality? Let’s find out. Notes compiled over several weeks of tasting. Rested about 15 minutes.

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Distillery: Craigellachie  

Bottler: Craigellachie

Region/style: Speyside single malt Scotch 

ABV: 46%.  

Age: 17 years. Released in 2022.  

Cask type: Ex-bourbon and sherry casks, with an additional finish in first-fill sherry and bourbon casks.

Color:  1.4 tawny. Natural color and non-chill-filtered.

Price: Around $90

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Nose: Lots of dried fruit: cranberries, dates, cherries. And dried tangerine peel. Some gingerbread. Has a mix of fresh and dried fruit, with pears, oranges, strawberries, raisins, and dates. Also reminds me of chewy fruit candies. Like grape candies especially. Damp newspaper.       

Palate: Strawberries, pears, oranges, raisins. Comes across more as jam than fresh fruit now. Grape Skittles or jelly beans. The worm tub effect manifests in the mouthfeel. Light cinnamon and clove with some tomato, like a tomato chutney. Not peaty, but there’s a certain toasted flavor that melds well with the spice. Impressive texture for 46%.  

Finish: Pretty rich and jammy. Cake with strawberry jam and cream, and fruit tea. Gets a little tart with some cranberry. More warm spice and roasted tomato sauce. Nice length for something not cask strength. Pleasant warmth.     

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Conclusion: Very well put together, start to finish. It’s sweet, but also has a nice roasted flavor. There’s a touch of sulfur, but fortunately not the cabbage sort. Brings out some umami. The cask touch does seem a little heavy to me; I’d be curious what it would be like without the extra first-fill finishing. The real issue, however, is the price. Would cost me about $180 in the US, or roughly double what I paid. Just not worth it at that level.

Score: 82

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Scoring Legend:

• 95-100: As good as it gets. Jaw-dropping, eye-widening, unforgettable whisky. (Convalmore 36)
• 90-94: Sublime, a personal favorite in its category. (Bruichladdich Black Art 4.1)
• 85-89: Excellent, a standout dram. (Ledaig 13 Amontillado)
• 80-84: Quite good. Quality stuff. (Tomatin 18)
• 75-79: Decent whisky worth tasting. (Glen Scotia 15)
• 70-74: Meh. It’s definitely drinkable, but it can do better. (Aultmore 12)
• 60-69: Not so good. I might not turn down a glass if I needed a drink. (Glenmorangie 10)
• 50-59: Save it for mixing. (Old Pulteney 12)
• 0-49: Blech. (Muirhead’s Silver Seal 16)