Review by: Raygun

In retrospect something heavily peated might have been more fitting for review #666. Or that infamously terrible Bruichladdich Madeira cask from Valinch & Mallet. However, I didn’t plan things out that way, so it’s going to be this unpeated old Laddie before its shutdown in 1995 and subsequent revival after being bought by Murray McDavid and put in the hands of Jim McEwan. I haven’t had many from those days, but my overall impression is they’re uneven. This was a release from Cadenhead’s (late, lamented) Small Batch line and might have been a US exclusive, which would explain why it’s a 750ml bottle. Reviewed from a sample. Rested about 15 minutes.

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Distillery: Bruichladdich

Bottler: Cadenhead’s  

Region/style: Islay single malt Scotch

ABV: 54%. Cask strength. 

Age: 25 years old. Distilled in 1991 and bottled in 20177       

Cask type: Bourbon hogshead, 204 bottles 

Color: 1.2 chestnut. Natural color and non-chill-filtered.

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Nose: I don’t think I’m overly sensitive to the Bruichladdich lactic notes, but this smells like yogurt. Or cultured butter. Sea breeze, orange, cereal, even close to olives.                   

Palate: I wasn’t sure what to expect from the nose, but the palate is very nice. It has the yogurty fermented lactic tang, but also caramel, mango, orange blossom, shortbread, and plenty of brine. Not very oaky for something this age; I suspect a refill hogshead. Some kind of umami that is hard to place.  

Finish: Even more yogurt. More shortbread and apple, but less orange. Again very briney, rivaling the Inchgower of a week or so ago. The savory umami is still there, and again tough to identify. Slightly nutty.

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Conclusion: Unpeated Bruichladdich can be a crapshoot in my opinion. Had some great ones, and also plenty that were meh. The old pre-McEwan days in particular, like this one, are not noted for consistency. This was one of the better ones. It definitely has the lactic flavor and it is strongly briney. Not the most complex pour, but it had that certain something that kept me wanting more. Isn’t that what one wants? The umami flavor was driving me a bit crazy; never did figure out what to call it. Whatever it is, it adds a nice little something. 

Score: 83

Scoring Legend:

• 95-100: As good as it gets. Jaw-dropping, eye-widening, unforgettable whisky. (Convalmore 36)
• 90-94: Sublime, a personal favorite in its category. (Bruichladdich Black Art 4.1)
• 85-89: Excellent, a standout dram. (Ledaig 13 Amontillado)
• 80-84: Quite good. Quality stuff. (Tomatin 18)
• 75-79: Decent whisky worth tasting. (Glen Scotia 15)
• 70-74: Meh. It’s definitely drinkable, but it can do better. (Aultmore 12)
• 60-69: Not so good. I might not turn down a glass if I needed a drink. (Glenmorangie 10)
• 50-59: Save it for mixing. (Old Pulteney 12)
• 0-49: Blech. (Muirhead’s Silver Seal 16)