Review by: Maltrunners
Raygun’s Introduction: Some of these older single casks are coming out from the period after Gordon & MacPhail bought and refurbished Benromach, a process which was completed in 1998. These would be made in the medium peated style of about 12ppm and following their policy of using all first-fill casks. Not necessarily the optimal choice for something that’s going to be aged 20+ years, but we’ll see how it works out. This full review features a summary of what we found, a group score, and our individual notes and scores for those who want all the details.
Distillery: Benromach
Bottler: Benromach
Region/style: Speyside single malt Scotch
ABV: 56.9%. Cask strength.
Age: 20 years. Distilled on June 20, 2003 and bottled on November 3, 2023.
Cask type: First fill bourbon barrel #466, 211 bottles.
Color: 1.2 chestnut. Natural color and non-chill-filtered.
Price: $230
The Group
Nose: Malty and fruity were the consistent notes, varying between late summer and autumn fruit: peaches, apples, and most frequently pears. Some felt it veered tropical, and citrus was another common note. The peat presented a bit unusually, drawing comments of soot and burnt cooking oil.
Palate: Beery and bready, yeasty notes came out here for some, and Benromach is known for using brewer’s yeast. The fruit seemed less citrusy and more toward the pear, peach, and apple side. A sort of dirty, industrial taste was frequently observed, variously described as tractor engine, diesel rag, or industrial grime. Tea appeared here and in the finish.
Finish: Butter, sugar, and/or pastry were common themes here. Tea got another mention or two, and some spice notes were more prevalent, particularly pepper of some kind. The oak was more prominent as well.
Conclusion: Good but not spectacular seems to be the consensus. Nothing too different than one would expect from a bourbon barrel Benromach of this age, except maybe slightly more peat. Fruity and spicy elements, and a buttery or oily sort of texture. The scores were mostly pretty clustered
Average score: 87.5 (85-92)
Whiskery Turnip
Notes: Dusty roads and dry glass led the way to the orchard. Past the old wooden farmhouse with its hints of cigar box and tobacco, stood rows of apple trees lined with wooden boxes. A touch of straw and pepper appeared as I drew closer— the apples carefully packed into straw. There was little in the way of fresh cut fruit, just loads of autumn, a rumbling tractor engine, and tonka bean. Medium-bodied, the flavor profile was very autumnal, though cleaner than the aroma. Plenty of hay bales, fallen leaves, apples, wispy smoke, and dry earth opened the affair before taking a turn toward crisp cut apples and pears. A touch of citrus popped with bubbly butter, brown sugar, and vanilla burn— we were prepping orchard fruit crumbles to enjoy on a fall picnic. The finish was long and a bit peppery with citrus, earth, and dry grass.
Mental Image: Autumn Picnic in Stardew Valley
Conclusion: These mature Benromach are such wonderful beasts, that I cannot wait to see what else Gordon & MacPhail have waiting in the wings from the distillery. While Cask 371, which I reviewed last year, had favorable reviews online and comparisons to Brora, I can see those even more here. Neither has the sort of waxiness that drive some Brora and Clynelish fanatics wild, but this had more of those slightly funky farm and orchard elements with an old-fashioned dirtiness to the aroma. The palate was more straightforward and clean, but not without some lovely depth. Overall, wonderful whisky— I should really be keeping a closer eye on Benromach.
Score: 87
Raygun
Nose: The smoke is mild but noticeable with a sooty smell. Apples, pears, and some gummi candy. There’s a bit of leather and pine as well. Something toasty about it and there’s a mineral aspect.
Palate: The peat is stronger here, more than I usually find in Benromach. Oranges, apples, and persimmons with some honey. Oolong tea. Quite oaky, but it’s not taking over everything as I’d feared. Provides some buttery pastry flavor, like a croissant. Or maybe an apple turnover, considering the apple flavor is prominent. Touches of spice and industrial grime.
Finish: Moderately smoky again. Similar to the palate, with apples, persimmons, and a ripe sort of oolong tea with a roasted flavor. Pastry with some almonds. The buttery flavor is reminiscent of a California Chardonnay, though the overall experience is not very similar. Has the industrial grime again
Conclusion: Very good. I usually barely notice peat in Benromach, but it came across more strongly here. I’ve never had an all-bourbon Springbank 18, never mind 21, but I wonder if this wouldn’t be about 80% there. It doesn’t have the farmy flavor exactly, but the mild peat and industrial grime are similar. Definitely more going on than your average Speyside. The younger Benromach single casks I’ve had were already good, but this is a different level. It’s grown on me each time I’ve poured it.
Final Score: 86
Ricebowl
Ricebowl
Nose: Sweet menthol, toasted bread, grilled peaches and lychee, crisped herbs, caramelized fig
Palate: Peppery, vegetable broth, bok choy, butterscotch peppermint, chai, burnt leaves, beef bullion, diesel rag
Finish: Bitter ash, saltines
Score: 85
Heretic
Nose: Like many Benromachs, layered but not very forthcoming. Citrus fruits lead with lemon and persimmon before highlighting peach and pear. The smoke note is really fascinating here. Burnt cooking oil (something I’ve gotten from a few Benromachs), and also something herbal to the smoke, almost gentian and powdered ginger. Hints of coconut milk and powdered sugar and vanilla bean. Best when nosed a bit away from the glass rim.
Palate: Oily and medium bodied. Very malt forward, but tight. Water helps here and unlocks orchard fruits (apples and pears), bockbier, and honey. Stays predominantly sweet with notable bready, malty notes that veer savory.
Finish: A bit coarse and tough at full proof with red pepper. Again, dilution helps. Butter, oak, white pepper, nutmeg, and Earl Grey tea. A hint of red berries here. Sweetness, spiciness, and bitterness all take turns here.
Conclusion: A good whisky by any standard. This has complexity, but it lacks balance even with playing with water ratios in two separate glasses. Whenever tasting, it seems almost anxious and ready to dart in different directions with little warning. This means it falls short of the similar 20yr from cask #373 that I’ve had.
Score: 87
BradboBaggins
Tasted: Neat in a capped glencairn after resting about 10 minutes, a few drops of water.
Nose: Malty and fruity on the nose. Some sweet lanolin, malt, fresh Anjou pears.
Palate: Sweet blonde malt upfront, gets into some white pepper, pear syrup, some plum wine, and some heat to go with more ripe pear, lanolin, and a hint of oak at the close.
Finish: Hangs with some warm, proofy vanilla and lanolin, hint of peach preserves, so medium length.
Conclusion: Plenty of flavor here, and plenty enjoyable, even if the head does step out a bit more than I’d like. Not a fatal flaw though, plenty to like here. Plenty. Plenty, plenty, plenty. Now I’m just saying plenty, plenty of times.
Score: 92
Scoring Legend:
- 95-100: As good as it gets. Jaw-dropping, eye-widening, unforgettable whisky.
- 90-94: Sublime, a personal favorite in its category.
- 85-89: Excellent, a standout dram.
- 80-84: Quite good. Quality stuff.
- 75-79: Decent whisky worth tasting.
- 70-74: Meh. It’s definitely drinkable, but it can do better.
- 60-69: Not so good. I might not turn down a glass if I needed a drink.
- 50-59: Save it for mixing.
- 0-49: Blech.
Malt Runners 