Review by: Raygun

Millburn was one of the casualties of the 1980s whisky loch, closing down in 1985. The site is now occupied by a Premier Inn and restaurant (not a very good one, if the Google ratings are any indication). A different Rare Malts bottling was among the weirdest Scotches I’ve ever had. It’s made me a bit nervous about trying more, but when a friend was splitting some, I took the plunge. Here’s one of them, another Rare Malts release. Reviewed from a sample. Rested about 30 minutes.

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Distillery: Millburn

Bottler: Cadenhead’s   

Region/style: Highlands single malt Scotch

ABV: 61.9%. Cask strength. 

Age: 25 years old. Distilled in 1975 and bottled in October 2001.      

Cask type: Unknown, likely bourbon

Color: 1.3 russet. Natural color and non-chill-filtered.

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Nose: Not nearly as weird as the other Rare Malts Millburn. Enough pungency to recognize this as something old, but more of a fruit bomb: apples, pears, apricots, currants. Some brown butter. A hint of celery.                          

Palate: Hot for sure. Brings some mustard green or horseradish sort of sharpness. But there’s the fruit, much like the palate with apples, pears, and apricots, now with a caramel drizzle. This one is going to want some water. Gets even fruitier with water, taking on some blackberry cobbler. And some leathery funk. Strong oak. Develops in a very interesting way. 

Finish: Much calmer than the palate, strangely. Caramel, apple, apricot. A little hint of mustard green, but it’s not too strong. Water again highlights the fruit, bringing in some blackberry and something like Sprite. Fairly sweet, but lots of wood keeps it in check. Quite drying, although not bitter.    

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Conclusion: I’ll put it a notch behind the Cadenhead’s from a few weeks ago, but it’s still pretty special. Millburn did some very unique stuff. I try not to get too deep into closed distilleries for obvious reasons, but I’m starting to see why some people make a big deal out of Millburn.

Score: 89

Scoring Legend:

• 95-100: As good as it gets. Jaw-dropping, eye-widening, unforgettable whisky. (Convalmore 36)
• 90-94: Sublime, a personal favorite in its category. (Bruichladdich Black Art 4.1)
• 85-89: Excellent, a standout dram. (Ledaig 13 Amontillado)
• 80-84: Quite good. Quality stuff. (Tomatin 18)
• 75-79: Decent whisky worth tasting. (Glen Scotia 15)
• 70-74: Meh. It’s definitely drinkable, but it can do better. (Aultmore 12)
• 60-69: Not so good. I might not turn down a glass if I needed a drink. (Glenmorangie 10)
• 50-59: Save it for mixing. (Old Pulteney 12)
• 0-49: Blech. (Muirhead’s Silver Seal 16)