Review by: Raygun
Bunna 12 has been a staple ever since I first tried it. When people ask me what’s a good first Scotch, it’s one of a few I recommend. Readily available, inexpensive (as single malts go), and good. The 18 got insanely priced during the recent boom, but the 12 is still usually around $60. However, my experiences were all based on the older bottles, meaning from around 2010, when they started bottling at 46.3% without coloring or chill-filtration, to 2016. In 2017 the packaging was redesigned. Did the contents change as well? Now I’ll find out by trying a 2022 version against a 2016 bottle. Rested about 15 minutes.
Bunnahabhain 12 2016
Distillery: Bunnahabhain
Bottler: Bunnahabhain
Region/style: Islay single malt Scotch
ABV: 46.3%
Age: 12 years. Most likely bottled in 2016, the last year of the old packaging. Purchased in 2017.
Cask type: Bourbon and sherry casks
Color: 1.6 mahogany. Natural color and non-chillfiltered.
Price: $45
Nose: Toasted nuts, dates, and a sea breeze. A bit of sharp funk like pecorino cheese. Slightly metallic.
Palate: Nice blend of sweet and salty. Dark chocolate with salted caramel. Dates, currants, and almonds. One of the nuttier Scotches I can recall. A little hint of spice and slight coffee bitterness. Pleasantly rich without being overpowering. For not being entirely sherry casks, it’s very sherry-forward.
Finish: Thick and rich, with aged balsamic vinegar. Nutty and pretty salty. That helps cut the richness. Dark chocolate with dates, currants, and almonds. Good length. Noticeably fuller than the 2022. Tastes like better casks were used.
Bunnahabhain 12 2022
Distillery: Bunnahabhain
Bottler: Bunnahabhain
Region/style: Islay single malt Scotch
ABV: 46.3%
Age: 12 years. Bottled in 2022.
Cask type: Bourbon and sherry casks
Color: 1.4 tawny. Definitely a couple of shades lighter than the 2016. Natural color and non-chillfiltered.
Nose: The metallic note in the 2016 is present, but much stronger. Also something like varnish. And celery. There are some of the toasted nuts, but not as much. Similar sea breeze and somewhat cheesy funk. The celery note is not pleasant. Maybe it is if you like celery.
Palate: Fortunately, it doesn’t taste like varnish. There is a hint of celery though. Nutty and salty, with some date richness. Dark chocolate and some coffee. Thin compared to the older bottling though. That’s just…more-ish.
Finish: More dark chocolate with almonds. Dates and currants. Not as rich or chocolatey as the older bottle, and more sour and astringent. It’s missing the balsamic vinegar, too. Like the palate, it’s thin by comparison and fades quicker.
Conclusion: I’m not one to say that the old days are always better, but in this particular case they were: the side by side demonstrates that the 2016 bottle is manifestly better. Richer and fuller, less metallic, and without the celery flavor. The 2022 by comparison is thin and sour. I think it’s pretty clear that they weren’t using the quality of casks that they had previously. On the bright side, now that demand has gone down, maybe the quality has gone back up, or will soon. However, until I try a more recent bottle, it’s going to be hard to recommend Bunna 12 as I often had before.
Score:
2016: 77
2022: 69
Scoring Legend:
- 95-100: As good as it gets. Jaw-dropping, eye-widening, unforgettable whisky. (Convalmore 36)
- 90-94: Sublime, a personal favorite in its category. (Bruichladdich Black Art 4.1)
- 85-89: Excellent, a standout dram. (Ledaig 13 Amontillado)
- 80-84: Quite good. Quality stuff. (Tomatin 18)
- 75-79: Decent whisky worth tasting. (Glen Scotia 15)
- 70-74: Meh. It’s definitely drinkable, but it can do better. (Aultmore 12)
- 60-69: Not so good. I might not turn down a glass if I needed a drink. (Glenmorangie 10)
- 50-59: Save it for mixing. (Old Pulteney 12)
- 0-49: Blech. (Muirhead’s Silver Seal 16)
