Review by: Heretic
Oban is one of Diageo’s most popular single malts in the US, selling 71,000 cases in 2020 (I couldn’t find more up-to-date figures). Virtually every single malt fan has likely had a glass, as it’s a bartender’s favorite. Oban is a tiny distillery by Diageo standards, not even making one million litres per year, and run by a lean staff of seven. Unlike siblings Talisker and Lagavulin, Oban is not a distinctly peaty, smoky single malt Scotch, but it carries its own character courtesy of some old-school production techniques.
Oban is one of roughly 20 remaining single malt distilleries that cool and condense spirit vapor coming off the spirit still using traditional worm tubs. The “worm” is a copper coil surrounded by a vat of cold water — the “tub” — and it leads to a distillate with denser mouthfeel that often has bolder, savory, and even sulfury notes. In a good cask and with plenty of years, those wilder flavors temper and add depth and complexity.
However, Oban pushes back against the worm-tub typing that applies to its Diageo siblings Mortlach, Benrinnes, Dalwhinnie, and Cragganmore. Dave Broom explains in The World Atlas of Whisky (2nd Edition) that the team allows the pot stills to rest between distillation runs, which refreshes the copper and strips out those sulfury elements. A warmer temperature on the worm tubs also prolongs copper contact, resulting in an intensely fruity spirit without the harshness. I always find cooked apples when having Oban, along with citric, saline, and black tea accents. It’s a great all-arounder of a malt.
Until featuring routinely in Diageo’s Special Releases, Oban expressions were uncommon, and virtually none were above 43% ABV. Options are a bit better in recent years, and Diageo quietly rolled out a US-exclusive cask-strength release separate from the “Rare by Nature” series.
I’ve kept you waiting long enough — onto the reviews!
Oban 12yr 2021 Special Release
Distillery: Oban
Bottler: Diageo
Region: West Highlands
ABV: 56.2%. Cask strength.
Age: 12 years. Bottled in 2021.
Cask type: First-fill, ex-bourbon and recharred refill ex-bourbon barrels
Price: ~$120 originally, still available with some searching
Appearance: Amber -1.5. Numerous outlets say that Diageo Special Releases are Non Chill-Filtered (NCF) and with No Added Color (NCA) (1/1)
Nose: Without water this is a bright, vibrant nose, though not full-volume (the fill-level may play a role in that). Green apples, honeycrisp apples, and watermelon. Then supported by some dustier elements like fennel and oregano. A faint hint of seashells and unfortunately some raw alcohol manifesting as a sharpie marker. With water, more approachable. Those apples return, but now are accompanied by field flowers, barley, and that watermelon note. (1.5/3)
Palate: Chewy, with butterscotch, broth, and dried apple and orange. Some vegetal notes again, like shallot, parsnip, and mint. A bit of bitterness from the oak, but no overt oaky notes. With water, it’s notably more civil, and definitely sweeter. Apple juice, honey, and citrus peels. Some nutmeg and caramel frame the palate. Whether water is added or not, it retains a viscous mouthfeel courtesy of those worm tubs. (2.5/3)
Finish: Closes out on green tea, shallot, pickled ginger, dried pineapple, and honey. With water, the honey takes the center stage, accompanied by vanilla beans. The pickled ginger and dried pineapple combo sits in the background. A hint of clam broth beckons to the nearby Oban Bay. (2/3)
Conclusion: 7/10, 87/100 — This is the very tail end of the bottle (purchased from a friend and open for quite some time), and having had a sample before, the fatigue is definitely setting in. However, its core character remains, as do its flaws. It lacks the clarity and complexity to grab a higher score, but it’s a very enjoyable pour. Water (5mls added to ~1.3oz) helps you decide if you want an intense, raw whisky or a simpler, easygoing one, but it gets peppery if only a little water (1-3mls) is added. It has that charming West Coast character — like Ardnamurchan and Ben Nevis — but even after 12 years in first-fill and recharred refill bourbon, there’s a raw side of this that I’m frankly annoyed with. This costs a decent amount of money ($135+) and it still has wrinkles.
Oban 15yr 2025 Special Release Exclusive for the US
Distillery: Oban
Bottler: Diageo
Region: West Highlands
ABV: 55.3%. Cask strength.
Age: 15 years. Bottled in 2025.
Cask type: Initially aged in refill casks for “over 10 years” before a four-year secondary maturation in sherry casks.
Price: ~$150 originally
Appearance: I’ll assume no color added here, but I can’t be sure about chill-filtering a US-specific release (0.5/1)
Nose: Wonderfully nutty on the nose, where it’s clear the Palo Cortado casks have the loudest voice. Super clear marcona almonds and walnuts, but it’s backed by a myriad of dried fruits — dried apple, apricot, sultanas, and orange. Underneath is a yeasty, sourdough-esque quality. Smelling for any extended period makes my mouth water, which I think is tricking me into detecting sea salt. With more time, it grows dustier and more malty. Super articulate, and though it’s unabashedly sherry-matured, it’s not a blubbering sherry bomb. (2.5/3)
Palate: Slow entry, but boy does this gain steam. It’s medium-full bodied thanks to the worm tubs. Waves of caramel, honey, malt beer, and those dried fruits from the nose. So, so fruity! And while there is oak, the tannins are kept in check. Predominantly sweet on the palate with some sourness; however, it’s not overly sweet. Water will introduce more wood spice midway through the development. (2.5/3)
Finish: Powerful finish with plenty of oak spice, namely cinnamon. Honey, orange peel, more dried fruits, and some lightly steeped Earl Grey tea. Throw in a handful of marcona almonds tossed with sea salt. (2.5/3)
Conclusion: 8/10, 90/100 — Maybe it’s confirmation bias, but I found this to be excellent. The nose is a teleporter, and even the wife agreed, “I’m back at the tasting table at Bodegas Tradicion” (review pending). Mercifully, the palate and the finish on this Oban are also exemplary. You can sip this neat without issue, and water just makes it more approachable. Proof that when Diageo wants to, they can put out a superb product to remind everyone how they got to where they are.
Final Thoughts: Many commentators and pundits like to decry special releases like these, if for nothing else than the sheer volume from various distilleries that are out there. Diageo’s yearly catalogue is no stranger to quality critiques, but bottlings like this show that they can still delight and surprise. Buyer beware, buyer take care.
Oban 12yr 2021 Special Release: 87/100
Oban 15yr 2025 Special Release Exclusive for the US: 90/100
Scoring Legend:
- 95-100: As good as it gets. Jaw-dropping, eye-widening, unforgettable whisky.
- 90-94: Sublime, a personal favorite in its category.
- 85-89: Excellent, a standout dram.
- 80-84: Quite good. Quality stuff.
- 75-79: Decent whisky worth tasting.
- 70-74: Meh. It’s definitely drinkable, but it can do better.
- 60-69: Not so good. I might not turn down a glass if I needed a drink.
- 50-59: Save it for mixing.
- 0-49: Blech.
Malt Runners 